How many amps does my inverter provide
If I have a Zamp ZP-300PS or a P-600PS pure sign wave inverter, how many amps does it put out at 120 volts? Am I calculating correctly at 300w \ 120 v = 2.5 amps AC? If I use a 600W inverter th...
Forum Discussion
The blue insulated 'quick connectors' which are provided with these USB sources, and some of the 12v combo panels with voltmeter and switch and USB and 12v port, are very poor. They are not tin coated brass or aluminum even, but some other metal, and the blue plastic shears apart when crimping and they cannot properly clasp the tangs.
Do not use them or even keep them for a 'just in case' situation.
I dislike crimping insulated terminals even with the correct dies to do so, and usually remove the plastic/nylon insulation, then crimp, and solder over the crimp, then heatshrink, usually two different length layers of heatshrink. Much more time consuming but much more reliable.
Lately I've just been soldering wires to the tangs, as I am out of the quick connects, and don't feel like going to acquire more, or placing an order.
The parasitic draw of my 8 year old Blue Seas 1016 USB is somewhere under 0.01 amps. It has a small green LED, but that 5vDC is always there, so the device is always converting 12.xvdc to 5v even with no usb cords inserted or devices asking for juice. I am 24/7, but not always 365. I have in the past pulled the usb fuse when away, but not so much because of parasitic drag but to extend the life of the USB and peace of mind while away.
As GTE says my Ciggy 12v receptacles have rarely been the issue, always the plug, but one is worthless without the other in most instances, the USB source being an exception, and they are an unreliable mechanical and electrical connection at best, and deserve zero praise.
It's disappointing to see this horrible ubiquitous connector get any. Any that have not failed, simply have not failed yet.
I've had a few which came with higher draw devices which eliminate the internal fuse, and some even have the glass fuse's endcap soldered directly to the wire inside the plug. Poorly soldered, and the failed fuse still appeared unblown.
The most failures of plugs were of the exploded view design that GTE posted. The spring got so hot it changed color lost its spring and the spring and spring holder melted into the plastic. That was powering this laptop's 90 watt DC to DC powerbrick streaming some HD video. Two of them failed, and the second replacement, was provided for a 400 watt inverter, but came with a sticker on it saying to not use it for more than 120 watts, and it failed at just over half that current.
Blue seas make their own plug version one inserts their own upto 14awg wire into, and I forget what I was powering but it also melted. I still use them where simply pushing on the connector to seat it and pulling it out slightly is convenient or I want something fused while testing boosters or buckers, but even here they have proved more trouble than they are worth.
When there is a high pitched whine coming from within a connector when a PWM led dimmer or motor speed controller is being powered through it, then it is obvious the connector is ****, no matter how much faith one might have in it, or how much they dislike me.
Avoid the ciggy plug and receptacle whenever possible. Even when used at half their 'maximum' rating, they will fail, its just a matter of time.
Do not use them or even keep them for a 'just in case' situation.
I dislike crimping insulated terminals even with the correct dies to do so, and usually remove the plastic/nylon insulation, then crimp, and solder over the crimp, then heatshrink, usually two different length layers of heatshrink. Much more time consuming but much more reliable.
Lately I've just been soldering wires to the tangs, as I am out of the quick connects, and don't feel like going to acquire more, or placing an order.
The parasitic draw of my 8 year old Blue Seas 1016 USB is somewhere under 0.01 amps. It has a small green LED, but that 5vDC is always there, so the device is always converting 12.xvdc to 5v even with no usb cords inserted or devices asking for juice. I am 24/7, but not always 365. I have in the past pulled the usb fuse when away, but not so much because of parasitic drag but to extend the life of the USB and peace of mind while away.
As GTE says my Ciggy 12v receptacles have rarely been the issue, always the plug, but one is worthless without the other in most instances, the USB source being an exception, and they are an unreliable mechanical and electrical connection at best, and deserve zero praise.
It's disappointing to see this horrible ubiquitous connector get any. Any that have not failed, simply have not failed yet.
I've had a few which came with higher draw devices which eliminate the internal fuse, and some even have the glass fuse's endcap soldered directly to the wire inside the plug. Poorly soldered, and the failed fuse still appeared unblown.
The most failures of plugs were of the exploded view design that GTE posted. The spring got so hot it changed color lost its spring and the spring and spring holder melted into the plastic. That was powering this laptop's 90 watt DC to DC powerbrick streaming some HD video. Two of them failed, and the second replacement, was provided for a 400 watt inverter, but came with a sticker on it saying to not use it for more than 120 watts, and it failed at just over half that current.
Blue seas make their own plug version one inserts their own upto 14awg wire into, and I forget what I was powering but it also melted. I still use them where simply pushing on the connector to seat it and pulling it out slightly is convenient or I want something fused while testing boosters or buckers, but even here they have proved more trouble than they are worth.
When there is a high pitched whine coming from within a connector when a PWM led dimmer or motor speed controller is being powered through it, then it is obvious the connector is ****, no matter how much faith one might have in it, or how much they dislike me.
Avoid the ciggy plug and receptacle whenever possible. Even when used at half their 'maximum' rating, they will fail, its just a matter of time.
