When using the electric heating element is there a way to tell when its reached max temp and shuts off? (besides trying to listen) I keep meaning the buy an instant meat thermometer. I suppose i could test the water temp coming out the faucet. But the way the tank is designed it seems the hot water that first comes out of the top of the tank does not represent the temp of the water lower in the tank. I notice how quickly the shower water can go from hot to cold. Seems like the tank does a good job of not letting the incoming cold water mix with the hot water at the top of the tank. Thats why simply sticking my hand under the hot water can trick ya. I did that yesterday and sure enough the water turned cold in about half the time. Thought i had waited a decent amount of time for the water to heat up.

I turn my pump off and open a hw faucet. When it starts dripping (for the 2nd time), water is hot. Of course this is using my tank.

I believe the light to ours, when in electric mode, turns off when it reaches max temp. Ours takes longer to heat then when in propane mode, so we rarely use the electric mode.

I would guess that it would take at least 45 minutes to heat up from cold. I never heat up the water entirely. Instead for showers I have a timer set for about 20 minutes. That is just right for a hot shower without using any cold water. That way I do no waste any water on adjusting the temperature. When I am boondocking and do not have access to water, I want to take a hot shower with no more than a total of 1 gallon of water.

It's not perfect but I usually have a good idea based on our voltmeter. If you are paying attention, it will jump by a couple volts typically when the heater goes off. It's not perfect because each campground will have a different voltage and other things can move the voltage depending on what else is running but I can usually tell when a large draw is applied.Better would be to install an amp meter on the main power inlet but it's a lot easier and cheaper to plug a volt meter into an outlet that's within easy visual range.I would be very surprised if the temp of the water in the tank is inconsistent by more than a degree or two. The heating element is towards the bottom and hot water will tend to rise resulting in a nice mixing. What you are likely seeing is as you draw hot water out of the tank, it is replaced with cold water at a rate faster than the heating element can compensate. With only 6gal (typical hot water heater), by the time you use 3 gal, the temp can be significantly cooler.

Correct cold water is replacing the hot water. But it does not seem to mix. Someone has posted a picture of the water heater insides. It has baffles that i believe are designed to keep the cold water from mixing with the hot. Which goes alone with how the shower feels. Temp is normal. I feel it get colder and i turn the water handle to full hot. That lasts about 5 seconds and everything that comes out from there is cold water.

How to tell when water heater is at max? | Good Sam Community

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Feb 08, 2021
Gdetrailer wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:

AquaHot, HydroHot, Oasis ------not the typical tank RV Water Heater

Attwood 1400W element
HERE
4779 BTU

Suburban 1440W element
HERE
4915 BTU

Gas 9000 BTU input, assuming say 60% efficiency 5400 BTU, most likely efficiency is closer to 70%-80% or about 6300 BTU-7200 BTU..

So, unless you have flunked math, gas IS faster, gas has a much quicker recovery and gas will sustain a longer draw..

And for the record, I ALSO HAD a Suburban 6gallon gas only, at one time, only took 10-15 minutes till it had scalding hot water..

RV water heaters unlike a sticks and bricks are typically set to 130-140 F temps, which is way above scalding point, it is intentional that they are set to high temps.. It allows you to heat a smaller amount of water bet yet draw for longer time.. Basically you will mix 1 part hot to 4 parts to cold to get a hot shower..

So if you use 1 gallon of water per minute and shower for 10 minutes you will have used 2 gallons of hot and 8 gallons of cold in that time frame.

Even if you used 1 to 1 that means a 6 gallon tank will get you a 6 minute shower..

Now if you DROP the amount of water used, you can now extend your time..

.5 gallon of water used per minute now means your shower can last 12 minutes even at a 1 to 1 mix..

I have personally never ever used anywhere near 1 to 1, basically slightly opening the hot water till it trickles then adding in much more cold water until I get a spray.. I am sure I am mixing 1 to 4 or 1 to 5.. And HAVE had no issues getting a darn hot 15 minute shower with hot water to spare..

Folks don't seem to understand that you cannot treat a RV like a sticks and bricks.. A sticks and bricks has a 40-50 gallon water heater..

Might read my 1st post
That info was covered
Atwood gas is 6 gal/8000btu & 10 gal/10,000btu
Suburban gas is 12,000btu (6,10, 12, 16 gal)

T-stat temp settings fr both brand listed

Also recovery rates were listed showing electric slowest, gas faster, both fastest
YC_1
Nomad
Feb 09, 2021
Just changed out our element for the 2000 watt one. Atwood 10 gallon heater.

Added mixer valve at water heater so water can only get to a max at each faucet.

Also changed out the T-stat and over temp T-stat as a kit. Water temps are now higher. Supposed to be 160 but I don't think it gets quite that high.

Chasing that cold to hot or hot to cold and chasing the shower controls was a pain. Nice long even showers now.
YC_1
Nomad
Feb 09, 2021
Find the schematic and post. An LED or regular 12 volt bulb could be placed to light up when the heating element is turned off just by connecting it to the return path of the T-stat snap disc.

When the T-stat removes voltage to the whatever device it controls, it could make the light go out, or on depending on how wired.

No indication of the actual temp, just an indication of the element being told to turn on. It could work on gas too.

A lighted switch if not already lit could be used. Light on = element off and water is hot for example.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Feb 09, 2021
YC-1,

Did you upgrade the wiring when you went to 2000 watts? And the breaker?
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Feb 09, 2021
Ok the element is 120 volts. You can get a 120 volt neon test light at most hardwares two short leads with probes. YOu may need to work some to access the heat ewlement but put lugs on the probes (the kind that slip over a screw) then loosen the conneciton screws and slip the connecters under and re-tighten, Recover the element but leave the light sticking out.
You will have to open the access panel to see the light

Like this one at Grainger

Or as an alternative you can use a Neon panel light again it needs to connect to the ELEMENT not the switch or anything else (well you could connect to the relay but it's right next to the element)

Like this one also at Grainger

I do not know why the links did not work . The one below works

The Google Search that found 'em
YC_1
Nomad
Feb 10, 2021
pianotuna wrote:
YC-1,

Did you upgrade the wiring when you went to 2000 watts? And the breaker?

Mine was already setup for 20 amps, breaker and all.
Veebyes
Explorer II
Feb 10, 2021
Don't know how long it takes from cold start on shore power & don't particularly care. Give it a half hour & it is warm enough for a shower.

Propane, give it 15 minutes or so & it is plenty warm.

If left hot overnight after being on propane then turned off, it is plenty warm in the morning for whatever hot water is needed.

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