How to Work Hydro-Flame BRC10 Controls? Update #2

Update! Got it going thanks to enblethen :)

I could not adjust the pilot flame. I took out the screw shown in the photo, and behind that there is a set screw that goes in and out, but the flame didn't change at all.

I was able to get the pilot to stay on only by heating the thermocouple with the BBQ lighter at the same time the pilot flame was burning. Then I could let go and it would stay lit, but only for a little while.

I tried bending it over closer to the flame and that worked once, but then next time I had to use the lighter on the thermocouple again. I suppose there is a perfect position to bend it to but I doubt I would ever find it.

After peering at the pilot flame with the red button no longer depressed for a short time, there was a click like a switch, and the flame went out.

This relates to another thing learned about the "pilot door"- a little cover for the hole you stick the BBQ lighter in to light the pilot. That door is not supposed to be left open it seems. The instructions say to close it, but what do they know? :) It has a wing-nut catch to keep it closed.

The direction for ON is indeed to counter- clockwise and OFF is clockwise and the marker for that is down. In the photo I have the red button in the Pilot position.

I learned to turn on the main burner sooner than when the pilot clicked off or by leaving the little pilot door closed so it doesn't
click off.

Nice heater! No noise, radiant heat, should be fine for the job.

Then I opened the little pilot door to peek at the flame and there was that click and the whole thing shut off. Got it all going again after a struggle, and it stayed on with the pilot door closed.

To shut it off properly, I followed the instruction to return the red knob to Pilot, depress and turn to Off. That worked. (Which is why I was so desperate to find out which way around is on and off)

I have not got to where it turns on and off as regulated by the thermostat. I suppose the pilot flame stays on for that. No idea. That's enough fun for one day :)

So thanks to the Forum I can now light the water heater and the furnace!

One other gas thing I learned from the RV guy. We could smell gas in the camper but nothing was on. He said check the stove oven knob. It turns out that you can turn the oven to "oven off" but this does not mean the oven is off !!!! (How stupid is that?)

So you turn the knob all the other way around and get to " Top and Oven Pilot Off" and this is what shuts off the gas to the oven. (Still no idea what the "Top" pilot might be, but there is an oven pilot low in the oven that works ok)

All this manual gas operation is a real pain IMO. I can see why my 2003 5er has everything gas work by itself just about.

Thanks for the update!
Look for the air intake in the combustion chamber and see if it is clear.

enblethen wrote:
Thanks for the update!
Look for the air intake in the combustion chamber and see if it is clear.

Do you get at that from the outside? I have a set of instructions for cleaning the whole thing I found on the web, but it is quite involved and I really don't want to get into all that if I don't absolutely have to.

I don't mind doing things like with my fridge (the 2002 Norcold and the 1981 Dometic), where you have to knock the soot out of the chimney and clear off the burner and all that.

I think it would be below the pilot lighting hole. Not sure! Think it has a fine screen over it.
Another thing on the pilot light being low, There should be a very small orifice in the end of the pilot tube. It is very small and could be impossible to find replacement if you drop it. Take Pilot tube loose from valve, it should be there. Soak it in alcohol, and blow out. Hole could be so small that you may not even see one. Debris could be blocking gas flow.

Even though the other appliances seem to work OK, how old and what kind of condition is the tank LP regulator in? A slight drop in pressure for some items can create issues. Pilots are a little more effected by low gas pressure.

Yes the tanks' regulator seems old. It has two 20lb tanks. I was told it will draw from each but it does not have the red/green indicator and switch-over like in the newer 5er. Also the hoses that go to the tanks screw in instead of on over. The tanks do have the new type valves.

I will poke around the furnace some more from inside and out. I have cleaned the burners from the Norcold and Dometic fridge where You can squirt mineral spirits from them like a little water pistol, so I should manage that if I can get at it.

The red knob on the control is very stiff to turn. I hope to free that up with lubricant.

The LP lines may just have a "tee" connecting the two tanks. This isn't the best now days as both tanks will drain and you could run out of fuel. The auto transfer regulator can give you a little warning that you have used up one bottle and has switched to the other.
The hoses are the old style. if they are in good shape with no cracking I wouldn't worry too much about them.
My old rig had the red knob. It was tight even when it was new. I would be very careful about using any solvent type lubricant on it. Maybe a little spray silicone, but nothing like WD-40 or Liquid Wrench.

enblethen wrote:
I think it would be below the pilot lighting hole. Not sure! Think it has a fine screen over it.
Another thing on the pilot light being low, There should be a very small orifice in the end of the pilot tube. It is very small and could be impossible to find replacement if you drop it. Take Pilot tube loose from valve, it should be there. Soak it in alcohol, and blow out. Hole could be so small that you may not even see one. Debris could be blocking gas flow.

The outside in and out area is clean, so nothing to do there.

Inside, I did not take it all apart but I did get the little brass tubing off that goes from the control box by the red knob up to the pilot flame inside the big cylinder.

I did not find any orifice piece in those but cleaned them out. Seemed ok anyway. With the brass tubing removed, I pressed in the red knob and there was hissing. Let go, hissing stops. Could not smell propane with the hissing but might have missed that

I see there are some screws behind the red knob that looks like you could take that all out from the control box. I undid the screw that holds the knob on but couldn't pry it off. Need to get the knob off to get at those little screws, if I ever do that.

Some lubricant made the red knob a little better for turning and also for pushing in and out.

Got it all back together but now of course it is being a nuisance with the mineral spirits and cleaner spray not dry I guess. I did get it going but now when the main burner comes on it sort of explodes and knocks out the pilot flame. I expect it will all settle down later as it dries out.

Some good stuff here that relates.

http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/retro_camper_iweb/d200/Hydro_Fame_BRC-10A_RV_furnace.html

Not quite the same model but good info about the pilot and lighting instructions. It does say to have the thermostat on high for lighting, then dial it as desired:

http://www.apachepopups.net/OldSite/pdf%20files/80hydroflamefurnace.doc

You are not supposed to bend the thermocouple (oops) Should be able to find that orifice now. We'll see.

Off topic, but what made you get a TC?