wnjj wrote:
All the thermostat does is connect RH to white to run the heat or RC to yellow for cool. It also connects RC to green to run the fan. You should be able to short those pairs of terminals to bypass the thermostat. I'm assuming the wiring is fine since it used to work ok. The OP was asking how to bypass to test the heater and A/C.
The only difference between residential and RV use is that residential uses 24V AC and RV uses 12V DC. The thermostat uses relays to connect "incoming" power (RH/RC) to whatever it needs to run (fan, heat, cool).
Thats pretty much what I was looking for. Thank you.
That said, I will try to deliver all the other information but just note that this is your "a typical" TT with probably a Suburban or Dometic AC unit on the roof and either one or the other for a heater down in the floor. Therefore I'm sure all the wiring you see in the picture (which for some reason fits in my screen) is what the trailer came with. How it was hooked up.....I can only guess that the wiring is in the same locations since everything worked. The only difference I see in the residential thermostat being used is there's no fan "low/high" switch, and thats more than likely where there unused green wire comes in.
No matter, I'm going to check today with a test light for conductivity and see if I can get specific functions to run. Thank you again all. :B