Forum Discussion
BFL13
Jun 06, 2014Explorer II
13.2 and 4% for "full" seems crazy. I find that 5amps on a 110AH batt at 14.5ish volts is close to 90% SOC. At lower voltage the battery would need to be at a lower SOC to be accepting the same 5amps.
So at 13.2 and still accepting 4 amps, SOC might be near ( total WAG) 80% ??? They can't be that goofy? Maybe a mis-read of what they are saying?
Anyway, that Victron without the charging parameters set should keep running the AH counter up and down same as the Tri does without the things set. If it does not have an auto reset then even better--you don't need to turn it off! :) Now you can use it the same way I am using my Tri, setting zero AH manually as the situation requires.
Trimetric uses 96% for CEF. They discuss why in a lengthy blurb on that. They also mention that once over 80% SOC, CEF goes crazy ( because of gassing?) Nevertheless, the recharge AH reduced by 4% overall seems to work out fairly well doing a set of 50-90s say.
On solar I have to reset AH to zero every evening when the batts get full during the day, since the batts keep taking some amps and the AH counter goes positive ie above zero. I guess that is more heat than 4% happening.
If you don't reset the zero then your morning voltage will not match your AH count which is a valuable cross-check of both readings. The AH will be too high. If you went over by 10AH the day before, then in the morning when it shows -30AH that is really -40AH.
Eg, right now at 3pm my readings are 14.4v (Float voltage set on the controller--it has been on Float since noon) batts accepting 1.5 amps. AH counter is plus 3.40AH and climbing. It will hit plus 7 or 8 AH before I use the microwave or whatever later on and knock it all down. Just before I do that I will reset the AH to zero as that will be my highest SOC today.
So at 13.2 and still accepting 4 amps, SOC might be near ( total WAG) 80% ??? They can't be that goofy? Maybe a mis-read of what they are saying?
Anyway, that Victron without the charging parameters set should keep running the AH counter up and down same as the Tri does without the things set. If it does not have an auto reset then even better--you don't need to turn it off! :) Now you can use it the same way I am using my Tri, setting zero AH manually as the situation requires.
Trimetric uses 96% for CEF. They discuss why in a lengthy blurb on that. They also mention that once over 80% SOC, CEF goes crazy ( because of gassing?) Nevertheless, the recharge AH reduced by 4% overall seems to work out fairly well doing a set of 50-90s say.
On solar I have to reset AH to zero every evening when the batts get full during the day, since the batts keep taking some amps and the AH counter goes positive ie above zero. I guess that is more heat than 4% happening.
If you don't reset the zero then your morning voltage will not match your AH count which is a valuable cross-check of both readings. The AH will be too high. If you went over by 10AH the day before, then in the morning when it shows -30AH that is really -40AH.
Eg, right now at 3pm my readings are 14.4v (Float voltage set on the controller--it has been on Float since noon) batts accepting 1.5 amps. AH counter is plus 3.40AH and climbing. It will hit plus 7 or 8 AH before I use the microwave or whatever later on and knock it all down. Just before I do that I will reset the AH to zero as that will be my highest SOC today.
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