I need a de-humidifer

Can't you rig up something to dump directly into the shower? Also it is better to use a different style of fan than what the dehumidifier has. Look for a computer muffin style 120mm unit for 120vac. Much more efficient, and it allows the airflow passing through the evaporator to get much colder which extracts more water. Place the extra fan on the floor main aisle facing the bathroom but locate it in the galley.
From the school of mold, electric bills, and frustration.

Hi mchero,

I use electric heated carpets.

The safest heaters may be the oil filled units, because their surface temperatures are well below most materials ignition point. They are slow to warm up a room as they rely on convection currents. I tuck them away into otherwise unused spaces by using 1/2 size units. Mine draw 462 watts.

I carry a radiant heater which I love because it heats what it is pointed at. The air is then warmed by heat reradiating from the item being warmed up. They are useful for thawing out a frozen storage panel door, even at low temperatures (tested to -27 c (-17 f)).

I use fan based heaters in several locations. For example my water hose compartment, and the waste tanks. When I know I'll need water I flip a switch and the heater warms the storage compartment.

I don't have any "toe" heaters (base board units), but if I were to continue to full time I'd be moving in that direction.

I do use mechanical thermostats to prevent freezing.

Possibly my best heating modification is the twin window fans that replaced the cold air return grill for the furnace. When they are on they circulate warm cabin air though the duct work and prevent fresh water line freeze ups. Mine is on a mechanical thermostat. I do use a 240 volt bulb in a reflector fixture to keep the water pump protected. It is on the same thermostat as the fans.

I added two extra shore power cords, so I have the OEM 30, a 20 and a 15 amp circuit available for running heat. My peak load is 7100 watts. Average is between 5000 and 6000 watts. Daily usage on Oct 14, 2016 was 3.3 kwh for 24 hours.

Plan well and keep the propane furnace set on at a low temperature in case there is a power failure.

I don't have any issues with moisture. It is -2 c right now and relative humidity inside the RV is 28%.

I really enjoy the slow steady heat from my oil filled electric heater. I recommend two modifications, first buy or build an external thermostat for it, since the built in thermo is skewed by the heat from the heater itself.

Second modification, maybe not required, is to bypass the built in thermostat internally. Mine would still switch off even set to it's highest setting. I did leave the tip over switch and over-temp cut out wired in however.

Looks like one should NOT go "on the cheap" when purchasing. I don't want mold growing along the bottom of the windshield and windows and I don't want to be emptying the collection bin two toms or more/day.
Now that i know we will have 50 amp service I don't have to be too concerned about amp draw.
Swung by Sears and looked at some units. Thought it be a good idea to swing by the Manchester NH location that's closing. BIG liquidation sale but the place was picked clean!
Will return to the Concord store today AFTER finalizing the winter site with the camp ground owner.
I think ill request grease fittings on the electric meter so it won't be squealing during high electric usage! Lol
The next project will be locating an electric heater. The ones you see at sams dont look like they could handle the job. Get a bit nervous when I see the sentance, "supliment heating" ceramic, infrared ..... Hmmm
Whats your take on the infrared heaters/ceramic/oil filled. That might have to be a different post.

Thanks again all, great posts for myself and others looking to winter in a COLD climate.
Can't wait for the first RV top snow removal! When we purchased this rig I had this rig and my much missed Pace Arrow Diesel. Not fun removing snow from TWO 35 plus foot rigs. Plastic skylights get a tad brittle when real cold!!

I need one too. Here is a site called the air geeks that advise the best of the quiet ones.

RELATIVE humidity is just that.

Relative

It is a different universe to reduce humidity from 70% to 50% when the temperature is 50F rather than 80%

A 500 watt unit could do it. A waste of time and money to try it on 200 watts.

mchero wrote:
AMP draw a very BIG concern when on 30 amp! Will need to keep water heater on electric AND will also need a small electric heater in the wet bay not to forget the fridge as well as one or possibly two electric heaters. Oh, the electric convection/microwave.
Add it up.

When looking at Amp draw, remember that those small boutique dehumidifiers are not as efficient in operation as the cheapest full size residential unit. Looking at the specs, you would need at least 6 of those units to match the efficiency of a small standard residential unit. So in practice, a single small efficient standard residential dehumidifier will cost less to purchase, use less electricity compared to several of those mini table top units, and it will do a much better job keeping you comfortable with less hassles and need for attention.

GordonThree 80% of rated output on a continuous load. But RV's because they "plug in" are exempt.

Burned plugs are the end result of going over that 80% figure.

Though I have had a 30 amp female Cameco burn when it was drawing less that 15 amps. (shore power was only 15 amps).

Absolutely! To each their own rig thank you.

Good point S Davis. Thanks for the reply.

You will get some heating from a dehumidifier as well.