See the attached pics from the PD installation guide. I don't understand exactly what the wiring instructions are trying to tell me for properly wiring the converter for an external disconnect switch.It seems to be wanting an always hot connection at the BATTERY POS. + connection and the switched side of the disconnect switch to the ALTERNATE BATTERY POS. + connection. Is this right? AND why? I don't know, but I suppose this might allow the charger section to continue to operate even with the disconnect switch off. BUT, if I use the battery disconnect switch I want EVERYTHING off, not a hot connection in the converter (I think)..

If I understand your concern correctly, I would say don't worry about that sentence as it only deals with MH's.Just connect the + and - to the battery connections. But I suggest that rather than connecting the converter to the fuse block and then on to the battery, that you connect both the fuse block and the battery directly to the converter. I say to do this because the fuse block contains polarity protection fuses that are already built into your PDI.

Never ever EVER put a switch or fuse device between an alternator and a battery.Betcha that gotya goingUNLESSIt's a fuse device rated 20% greater amperage than the potential of the alternator.This means the alternator to battery wire has to be big enough to carry the load.

If your replacing and old converter that already is setup with battery disconnect switch then I believe you can ignore the portion which mentions alternate battery disconnect switch - I did and it works fine.

Take a close lookThere is a jumper between the two connectionsAnd it says D.C. disconnect, not battery disconnectRemoving jumper and putting a switch inline between the two pointsAllows you turn off all "FUSED" D.C. aka house 12v circuitsWhile leaving the battery connected and charging, or connected but no LOADSIgnore it for your use

A converter is nothing more than a glorified battery charger.So hook it up same as a battery charger, except more permanent.But you can connect it any custom way you want to. If you depend on the converter to maintain battery while in storage, you might very well want to connect it bypassing the batt disconnect switch.

Installing new Progressive Dynamics converter | Good Sam Community

PatrickA51
Explorer
Jun 20, 2015
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Never ever EVER put a switch or fuse device between an alternator and a battery.

Interesting statement considering most all automobils have such a fuse device between the alternator and the rest of the vehicle.

I know you can not see it..But I know what to look for.

It is called a "Fusible Link".

Try reading the ENTIRE response next time :)

And FYI the alternator path to the battery has a fusible link but allows the alternator to feed chassis electrical. Sorta you know like keeps the alternator voltage regulator VOLTAGE SENSE LEAD WIRE feedback intact. This avoids full load dump and like a solar panel it is not in the realm of possibility that an alternator to ground short will compromise the wiring. But a battery to ground short is another story.

Chopping off a loaded alternator is a death sentence to the alternator. Newer cars have a C connention (field report) at the reg that runs directly to the CPU ECU. Might a 200 volt load dump ring hurt the computer? Yeah you might say so. If a person insists on fusing an alternator use HUGE wire and size the fuse (not a breaker) for the wire capacity. I do hope this helps.

Bravo :D

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