I don't have a long term experience to back me up, but I do agree with his idea. I started with a previous generation Morningstar Sunsaver PWM controller. It only does one voltage, which is 14.4 adjusted up or down by ambient temperature. My cheap 12v batteries seemed to do just fine with it. I did not go for long periods on solar, though.
I started a thread a year or two ago asking why float mode was needed on solar. Float mode is the end of a long charge cycle. With solar, every day is a new charge cycle, with complete rest every night. Float mode seems useless. If you get full during the regular daily cycle, the amps taper down to virtually nothing. The sun goes down, and it shuts off. What else do you need? Even the models with float mode still start every new day in the bulk cycle, and onward from there. It's not like you are sitting in float continuously like you would on a shore power converter.
The current version of the Morningstar Sunsaver PWM has float mode. I asked them why the change, and I got the feeling they didn't want to say it was for marketing reasons.
All controllers have float now. Usually after Vabs has been present for 1-4 hours, it drops to float. Why??? You might still be able to get a few more KwH out of absorption.
Most people in my thread didn't like my idea.
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28696964.cfmNow I have added more wattage, and I have a Renogy controller that runs 14.8, and 13.8 float. Okay, whatever.
