Interior space heating improvements
We are looking at a couple options for additional space heating appliances. Some criteria: - quiet! - approved for space heating in rv use. - low or no electricity requirement to operate ...
Forum Discussion
06Fargo wrote:Handbasket wrote:
I'm fooling around with a version of Roy Ken's hydronic thing. Google such terms as 'water cooled PC'. I'm wanting it mostly for 'background heat' so the noisy furnace doesn't wake me up so often. The Tiger's small, about the same volume as a truck camper. A quiet, low-amp pump, a computer fan, a radiator, and my existing water heater may be the answer.
I've got an email in mow to one of the outfits to determine what change in water temperature I can expect from inlet to outlet on the radiator. And yes, I've considered the Propex as a replacement for the Suburban 16000 Btu howler. I may do it yet.
Jim, "All reports are now in, and it's official. Life is unfair."
Hi Handbasket - yes the rad mfg should be able to tell you the btu/hr you can expect based on inlet water supply temp and flow and fan cfm. I do have room for a couple of these...time to get the ciphers out
What has always worried me about replacing the forced-air furnace with something quieter is what to do about the "basement". Seems like the hydronic hot water system could solve this.
Can an RV hot water heater supply as much heat as the forced air? I see Atwood sells a 50,000BTU tankless hot water heater as a replacement for 6-10 gal tank units, so I guess this one can.
Are standard RV hot water heaters more efficient than the forced air furnace? Our forced air sure seems to pump a lot of heat outside in the exhaust.
