Inverter AGM questions
I have been thinking about installing a inverter in my truck, either a 2000-3000 watt. I would use it to run small power tools, air compressor, an electric blanket when on the ferry system as you can'...
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Mr. OP!
Thank You! For providing that pdf download. It is now on my hard drive!
I spent hours going back and forth studying it and the components involved. Factory service manuals provide a superb starting base for diagnostics. I lack the real machinery (the vehicle) to undergo testing but here goes some sample opinions. Opinions are severely limited in scope as compared to "findings". Please excuse the resulting brevity...
GMs decision to cycle the chassis battery off and on during regular driving IMHO is utterly stupid. This forces cycling. You can reduce the negative effects of this stupidity by choosing to replace the engine (chassis) battery when it fails with a good quality any brand AGM battery.
I can only hope this serves to help. I am open for more questions :)
Thank You! For providing that pdf download. It is now on my hard drive!
I spent hours going back and forth studying it and the components involved. Factory service manuals provide a superb starting base for diagnostics. I lack the real machinery (the vehicle) to undergo testing but here goes some sample opinions. Opinions are severely limited in scope as compared to "findings". Please excuse the resulting brevity...
- The charging system is complicated - does not imply inferior or insufficient - but it absolutely is indicative of -never let even a regular mechanic diagnose or work on this system. Ever-
- The integrated charging system module is based entirely on voltage
- IC's within the module use real time and stored voltage algorithms to manage the alternator and auxiliary battery circuit
- The addition of more ampere hours in the aux battery circuit is not in any way sensitive to how many ampere hours have been added
- The ECU presents an unchangeable charging profile - no way to modify it
- Engine speed is boosted automatically when voltage profiles are low and or rising slowly
- The ECU voltage regulator demands that replacement upgrade alternators not increase field amperage which would change the ECU amperage burden
- ECU voltage is thermistor controlled and there is nothing easy about tweaking the Delta T to modify the temperature compensation curve
- There is a 125 ampere chassis fuse in the aux battery circuit
- Do not engage high DC loads such as an inverter with the engine running
- Normally high loading drags down voltage to the voltage regulator decreasing alternator output
- Your system utilizes engine battery power to field the auxiliary battery circuit
- This means the 125 amp fuse could fail from over current
- I would much prefer to see a digital dash volt meter for this setup to keep tabs on the aux circuit
- Never ever jumpstart another vehicle with your chassis battery circuit too much to explain this
- When charging while parked raise hood to minimize heat build up voltage drop.
GMs decision to cycle the chassis battery off and on during regular driving IMHO is utterly stupid. This forces cycling. You can reduce the negative effects of this stupidity by choosing to replace the engine (chassis) battery when it fails with a good quality any brand AGM battery.
I can only hope this serves to help. I am open for more questions :)
