Inverter AGM questions
I have been thinking about installing a inverter in my truck, either a 2000-3000 watt. I would use it to run small power tools, air compressor, an electric blanket when on the ferry system as you can'...
Forum Discussion
I use the term "Chassis Negative Return" because GROUND should be reserved for the EARTH circuit in Alternating Current circuits.
Bonding negative to a vehicle chassis is almost an art-form. In your case I would do it with one-AWG cable. AWG is not SAE, it is larger and if you use a quality supply house like genuinedealz.com you will get American Wire Gauge size wire. (1) AWG is a single cable one-AWG wire is a particular cable size smaller than 1/0 and larger than 2 AWG.
You can run this cable from the engine block, cylinder head, or intake manifold, a bolt at least 3/8" diameter or 10mm THREAD size or 13mm wrench size bolt. Stacking it under the manufacturer's ground cable would be ideal. Then run it to the main chassis rail frame. Not to a riveted crossmember. Too much amperage for trusting to a riveted crossmember.
Drill your bolt hole. Then the frame steel that contacts the cable lug must be cleaned until the steel is bright and shiny. I use standard plated bolts, lockwasher, and nuts. Clamp the lug to the frame. Tighten as tight as bolt torque specs suggest. This is important. When finished with this clamped cable, smear chassis grease on the lug-cable side and underneath on the nut. It will last forever unless washed off. This is one area I refuse to deal with as a problem child later on. Be meticulous and you will never have to deal with a bad connection here.
The same thing for the same reasons apply to the chassis negative cable to camper battery negative posts apply. Sometimes it is easier just to run a direct cable, but if longer than ten feet total distance I would recommend one aught cable one size larger than one AWG.
I use black SPIRAL WRAP on frame cables. Protection.
Here is a lifetime crimper.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ton-Hydraulic-Wire-Terminal-Crimper-Battery-Cable-Lug-Crimping-Tool-w-Dies/271428289917?epid=1679827079&hash=item3f3263057d:g:gEcAAOSwstJZQMbX
HEAT SHRINK TUBING
https://www.ebay.com/itm/700-3-4-Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Lined-4-1-HEAT-SHRINK-TUBING-TUBE-ES-4-ES20004B/112139639898?hash=item1a1c0b1c5a:g:vrAAAOSwMHdXSwjO
CABLE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-AWG-Gauge-Tinned-Copper-Marine-Battery-Cable-Boat-Wire-By-the-Foot-RED/272262960794?hash=item3f6423169a:g:p70AAOSwepJXUZCD&vxp=mtr
TERMINALS
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-AWG-Gauge-Tinned-Copper-Marine-Battery-Cable-Boat-Wire-By-the-Foot-RED/272262960794?hash=item3f6423169a:g:p70AAOSwepJXUZCD&vxp=mtr
When using true american wire gauge cable always select a lug that is one size LARGER than the cable AWG. One gauge cable, use 1/0 lugs, 2/0 cable, 3/0 lugs. 2 gauge cable, 1 gauge lugs. Trust me on this. The school of hard knocks.
Play with the crimper to select the correct set of dies for the cable lug outer diameter. Crimps should almost solidify the copper wire stranding inside without tearing up the copper lug. When crimped properly the end of the wire becomes stiff.
Bonding negative to a vehicle chassis is almost an art-form. In your case I would do it with one-AWG cable. AWG is not SAE, it is larger and if you use a quality supply house like genuinedealz.com you will get American Wire Gauge size wire. (1) AWG is a single cable one-AWG wire is a particular cable size smaller than 1/0 and larger than 2 AWG.
You can run this cable from the engine block, cylinder head, or intake manifold, a bolt at least 3/8" diameter or 10mm THREAD size or 13mm wrench size bolt. Stacking it under the manufacturer's ground cable would be ideal. Then run it to the main chassis rail frame. Not to a riveted crossmember. Too much amperage for trusting to a riveted crossmember.
Drill your bolt hole. Then the frame steel that contacts the cable lug must be cleaned until the steel is bright and shiny. I use standard plated bolts, lockwasher, and nuts. Clamp the lug to the frame. Tighten as tight as bolt torque specs suggest. This is important. When finished with this clamped cable, smear chassis grease on the lug-cable side and underneath on the nut. It will last forever unless washed off. This is one area I refuse to deal with as a problem child later on. Be meticulous and you will never have to deal with a bad connection here.
The same thing for the same reasons apply to the chassis negative cable to camper battery negative posts apply. Sometimes it is easier just to run a direct cable, but if longer than ten feet total distance I would recommend one aught cable one size larger than one AWG.
I use black SPIRAL WRAP on frame cables. Protection.
Here is a lifetime crimper.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ton-Hydraulic-Wire-Terminal-Crimper-Battery-Cable-Lug-Crimping-Tool-w-Dies/271428289917?epid=1679827079&hash=item3f3263057d:g:gEcAAOSwstJZQMbX
HEAT SHRINK TUBING
https://www.ebay.com/itm/700-3-4-Dual-Wall-Adhesive-Lined-4-1-HEAT-SHRINK-TUBING-TUBE-ES-4-ES20004B/112139639898?hash=item1a1c0b1c5a:g:vrAAAOSwMHdXSwjO
CABLE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-AWG-Gauge-Tinned-Copper-Marine-Battery-Cable-Boat-Wire-By-the-Foot-RED/272262960794?hash=item3f6423169a:g:p70AAOSwepJXUZCD&vxp=mtr
TERMINALS
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-AWG-Gauge-Tinned-Copper-Marine-Battery-Cable-Boat-Wire-By-the-Foot-RED/272262960794?hash=item3f6423169a:g:p70AAOSwepJXUZCD&vxp=mtr
When using true american wire gauge cable always select a lug that is one size LARGER than the cable AWG. One gauge cable, use 1/0 lugs, 2/0 cable, 3/0 lugs. 2 gauge cable, 1 gauge lugs. Trust me on this. The school of hard knocks.
Play with the crimper to select the correct set of dies for the cable lug outer diameter. Crimps should almost solidify the copper wire stranding inside without tearing up the copper lug. When crimped properly the end of the wire becomes stiff.
