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denim912's avatar
denim912
Explorer
May 23, 2015

Inverter query

We have a small B+ class 23' RV (2001 Peak Kodiak), and have recently installed 2 x new 6v golf cart batteries in series after realising our old batteries had had their day (after about 3-4 weeks boondocking with little driving & about an hour of generator a day to try and top them up).

Last week we made the plunge by installing 2 x 100w renogy panels on our roof, and then to a viewstar solar charge controller (30amps I believe). At the same time we purchased a Samlex 2000W PST-12 inverter. We bought the inverter even though we do not have huge power usage (microwave for maybe a few minutes a day, but mainly to just charge our laptops, boil a kettle, odd hairdryer moment, etc. We know we can never run our air conditioner via it!) - we just wanted to mostly have access to our wall plugs without having to turn on the generator (as mentioned, we very rarely pay to stay at camp sites & hook up). We are trying to be 100% off grid.

Unfortunately our solar installer (a friend) was not confident in installing the inverter. He installed the solar easily, and even though we only had about 24 hour usage before going to an RV service place to install the inverter, we are confident it was all installed correctly (at least the charge controller tells us that when the SOC goes up when we're parked up!)

But the inverter installation has appeared to be a very different kettle of fish...

To cut a long story short, after having transfer switches installed, and then a return trip to have a relay installed, any time the inverter is on we see a HUGE power drain from our batteries, even though nothing is actually physically plugged in or on (we have switched the fridge to 'gas only' rather than 'auto' after it was felt that might be the draw). We are seeing about 5% battery drop a minute, so within 10 minutes our batteries are pretty much rendered useless. And that's without even using anything (e.g. we get about 5 seconds of the microwave before the low voltage screech goes off on the inverter).

Looking online, there may be a case where the inverter is essentially running a loop between itself and the coach power converter. But this was why we bought the relay into the equation after seeing this drop pretty much straight away (unsure whether that is wired in correctly or not. The RV guys seemed to think so, but this was when we left the garage with them thinking all was ok - and if being honest, a little weary after 3 days of trying to get the inverter in & working). We left the garage thinking it was all working correctly (& it appeared so to me), but then as soon as we stopped driving after a couple of hours with the inverter on (& no 'known' loads off it) we parked up, only to see to our horror the dreaded SOC rapid drop.

I suppose my question is, could this be the issue? Inverter pulling power out of battery, converter taking that power from the inverter and then just pushing it back into the battery. And of course the loss of amps in that process of 12VDC to 110VAC back to 12VDC and so on? And if so, what could be potentially solutions?

Apologies again, if this isn't anything you deal with or have time to help with, but having spent a significant amount on RV service bills, to people who clearly didn't know what they were doing, we just don't have the funds to go to another place, without being at least slightly armed with some potential reasons & potential solutions.

Many, many thanks

8 Replies

  • +1 make sure converter is off

    Think about buying a DC AMP Clamp multimeter. These are INVALUABLE with solar and finding out true amperage used/gained.

    What gauge of wires go from the batteries to the inverter? YOU MUST HAVE THICK WIRES HERE. Your voltage loss will be amazingly high and the wires will get very hot under use.

    You should have AT LEAST two 4ga or one 2ga wire. This is also a topic for debate, I'm giving a generic 'no less than.'

    If the wires look like the wires from the Solar panels you probably have a problem.

    Also, Is there a fuse between the battery and the inverter for no more than the max amps that the wires are rated for? (If the wires are rated for 150a, NEVER put a fuse higher than that on them, else the wire becomes the fuse)

    Also, your inverter is overpowered for your batteries, and the panels will likely NOT keep you charged up. (~10 amps/hour full sun of charge rate) Consider two more 6v's if you want the power the 2000 can give out. Also two more solar panels.
  • My guess is you have one of these.



    If so, If I remember correctly, the fridge and the converter are on separate breakers. You will have to remember to turn the fridge to gas on the front panel of the fridge and turn the breaker off for the converter whenever you are on inverter power. As someone else mentioned you can add a sub panel so this is done automatically or just remember to switch them when on inverter.

    Hope this helps.

    John
  • 3_tons's avatar
    3_tons
    Explorer III
    No Problemo, you can passively automate this scenario by adding a sub-panel. In this case you'd simply relocate the desired circuits (say for off-grid typically, household plugs and microwave) to a sub-panel and this would (upon loss/lack of shore or genset) prevent the inverter from backfeeding other wasteful circuits in the main panel (i.e. converter, auto-switching refer, water htr, and air conditioner), thus limit inverter operations (assuming no shore power) to the sub-panel circuits alone.

    To do this (assuming your inverter lacks a built-in ATS), the first ATS 'output' will need to be split to supply both the Main Panel (it's now remaining circuits) and the secondary ATS (remember, the inverter also feeds into this secondary ATS), so now the secondary ATS 'output' (now unable to backfeed), will supply only the sub-panel curcuits (say, household plugs and microwave)...

    This, a nice project that during off-grid will work perfectly and passively...

    3 tons
  • denim912 wrote:
    I suppose my question is, could this be the issue? Inverter pulling power out of battery, converter taking that power from the inverter and then just pushing it back into the battery. And of course the loss of amps in that process of 12VDC to 110VAC back to 12VDC and so on? And if so, what could be potentially solutions?
    Yes. Disconnect the converter. Put the converter on its' own breaker so it can be shut off.

    Check other stuff also like electric water heat and even the fridge. These need to be set to propane only.

    A mobile tech should get this straightened out if needed. If in So Cal I could walk you through it.
  • how many circuit breakers in the distribution panel, turn off the one for the converter
    it might be on a circuit with something else like some of the outlets, or the fridge

    you can turn off ALL breakers, then watch the battery monitor while you turn them on one at a time
    this will tell you which breaker has the power draw
    and then maybe you can sort things out
  • Hi,

    Sounds as if the converter is 'live'. Disconnect it. How about the water heater? Is it turned off?

    If you do not wish to run the microwave, a 300 watt inverter may be a better choice.
  • Shut off the breaker for the CONverter. If they are powering everything, maybe the converter is trying to charge the battery. Are you monitoring your battery voltage? Your INverter is going to hammer 2 6 volts. You will need many hours of charging if your converter is only charging at 13.6 or so volts.

    At minimum get a digital voltmeter. If you want to go with a good monitor that will let you know more about how many amp hours you have used, etc, get something like a Trimetric. Your battery should be 12 volts at the minimum. Everybody has different likes or methods but you basically want to go no lower than 12 volts.

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