Inverter/small refrigerator

RoyB wrote:
Blue sea sells this manual selector switch which would be perfect for your manual selection.


Google Image

You can add additional switches to this to control additional circuits as the needs grow...

Typical installation might look like this google image from a different company manual switch photo...


This would be a typical schematic for multiple banks of manual switches...


This would be the SAFTEST way to do this following all of the Wiring Install rules etc. This looks nice sitting beside the typical Power Distribution Chassis like shown here...


Google Image

I use a couple of pure sine wave Power Inverters along with my OFF-ROAD setup for operating things OFF-ROAD when needed. Nothing fancy like shown above for manual switching into the system. I just run a couple of HD Extension cords with a mulit-head power taps from the Power Inverter location to a couple of cabinet tops close to the appliances I want to run off of the Power Inverters. Then just simply plug them into the multihead power taps...

My poor man's manual transfer switch hehe...


My Power Inverters are installed as close to the larger battery bank to operate them as I could get ans still be inside my trailer. I am about 5-6 feet away from my main Battery DC switch setup. A 1000Watt PSW Power Inverter will require additional batteries to operate it for sure...

I get away with a 600WATT PSW Power Inverter for running the Home Entertainment items, a bunch of cell phone chargers, computer chargers, a couple of fans, lights etc when camping off the power grid... My small 3-mode fridge without a freezer compartment runs just fine from 120VAC-Propane-DC.

My game plan to run all we want to run during the day/night run off the batteries and then hookup the Popup trailer Shore Power cable to my 2KW Generator each morning when allowed to run generators and let the on-board PD-9260C Converter/charger unit re-charge my battery bank back up from its 50% charge state to its 90% charge state so we can do all of this all over again for the day/night run off the batteries. We can do a good 12-14 of these 50% to 90% three hour charge cycles without having to do a full 100% charge state which would take around 12 hours of generator run time to do. Been doing these routines since 2009 and just now having to replace my battery bank...

This is us camping off-grid at Doris Camp at Medicine Park, OK with no Shore Power. Note the two extension cords running over to the picnic table to run a few things especially the box fan to keep mosquitoes away from us hehe...


Roy Ken

Roy,

That is absurdly over the top ridiculous cost wise...

Why put so much burdens on a simple task?

OP simply needs a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) toggle switch WITH CENTER OFF POSITION..

Looks like this..



Handles 20A and costs maybe at the most $3 at Home Depot or Lowes..

Op would need to put in a electrical box but once again, those are cheap at perhaps $1.50 anywhere electrical supplies are sold..

Source power is connected to the outside terminals (hot and neutral), the fridge gets connected the the two center terminals (hot and neutral), making sure that the hots line up with all the hots and the neutrals line up with all the neutrals..

It isn't like they are going to power up a space craft and a simple regular toggle switch is plenty sufficient for the job..

To operate, the OP will flip from one power source to the center OFF..

Wait a couple of minutes (this allows compressor time to cool and the pressure to equalize before restarting).

The flip from the center OFF position to the other power source.

Easy peasy, low cost, readily available.