Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

That would work.

Be aware that some campgrounds, especially private ones, will not allow you to use more than one receptacle on the post at one time. Read their rules carefully. Sometimes it has to do with electric consumption and cost, other times it has to do with overloading the system. Some won't care, some will.

Charles

First put your water and fridge to propane only.

If you must run a separate cord to pull in more power.... use an extension with #12 wire (no 18, 16, 14)

HW, MW and space heater are high draw appliances. The refer and charger also contribute so keep the usage down. I added a separate circuit for 30A pedestals that can be plugged into the 20A pedestal plug when desired.

I have been thinking the same thing for my class C. Then I saw This post and it does seem doable.

But my thought would be to use One of These they come in different lengths and I could put it where I wanted it.

I have been doing this for about 15 years without any issues. I just run the cord thru a slide out seal. I have never been questioned by any campground person. As mentioned by time2roll be sure to use a heavy duty extension cord.

As to what CharlesinGA says about campground restrictions—campgrounds are all about the money. If you find one that restricts outlet usage, you could ask to be allow to use more than one if you are willing to offer to pay an additional charge for electricity. Also, sometimes it is easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission!

DD716TED wrote:
We use our trailer a lot during the winter and in COLD weather.. Normally we use the propane furnace but it gobbles propane. The trailer is connected to the 30 amp outlet on the park post BUT when we try to use an electric space heater to help, the post breaker often trips when the microwave or other appliance is used.. Any thoughts about connecting a separate power cord from the park 15 amp pedestal outlet/breaker then routing it into the trailer to power the electric space heater??? had to ask

We just turn off the space heater when running the microwave or electric skillet. It's usually only a few minutes so no big deal.

A 30amp should provide 3600w for short bursts but only about 3000w continuously. A space heater will typically be around 1500w. If the water heater is running (another 1500w) and a 250w fridge (on electric)...you are pushing the outlet to the limit, lights, fans, TV and other small loads can easily push you over the 3600w and pop the breaker.

As mentioned, run the fridge and water heater on propane will keep the power draw down and then shut off the space heater while using other high draw items.

Running a line to a separate pedestal will work but as mentioned, many campground operators won't be happy. Particularly if electricity is included in the site cost.

When we owned a mh we regularly ran the second ac on a different plug at the pedestal. We never had any complaints from the cg. We traveled all over the U S.

So if you are old enough you will remember the comedy Green Acres. Oliver assigned every electrical device a number from one to seven, all the devices could up to a total of seven can be plugged in at the same time.

Same thing in your RV. Plugging a 2nd cord into the 15 amp cord may do no good depending on how it's wired as it may well still pop when you exceed your AMP draw.

We have a 30amp RV too, thankfully our power center shows me the AMP draw so we have a good idea of how much we're using. We generally run a couple space heaters, however I set them for the 750watt draw which is the "low" setting, it takes the edge off and the LP heater kicks in if it gets colder.

If we want to use the microwave, coffee maker, etc we shut off or or both space heater(s). That's the easiest way, just know how much you can use and manually turn things off. To give you some idea of the draw here is a list of some common RV devices and their general amp draw amounts.