Almot wrote:
Dutchmensport - Jack stand I was talking about, was not a hydraulic bottle jack. It was this:
It is not very strong.
Bull Hocky ... each of those stands are rated at 6K
OTH, hydraulic bottle jacks are very strong and are the only tool that should be used for lifting a trailer for servicing wheels etc. I've been told not to leave a hydraulic jack in extended position for long time, or the shaft will corrode.
This jack stand on the photo will corrode too, if not lubricated often. Some stands of this type are aluminum, but only the frame, while the screw is steel.
Yes the screw is some sort of metal, but I have been using the same set of these EXCLUSIVELY for the last 34 years on two different trailers w/o doing doing any maintenance or lubrication on them and they are 95% rust free with only slight rust on the very top support ring
Cement blocks (or fake cement, whatever) can't always be placed on the end, there might not be enough room. But they sure need a solid, flat and wide support both below and above.
As already mentioned the normal scissor stab jacks are only stable in one direction (basically) straight up because of all the pivot points and arms necessary in the design so they can be extended/retracted. By putting proper weight on those jack stands you can get very close to the performance of cinder blocks. Due to the very poor performance of the normal stab jacks, I completely removed mine over 7 years ago and have been using four of those jack stands at the correct locations for a ROCK SOLID trailer. BTW the proper location is not at the corners of the trailer but approx 6 to 8 feet in front and behind the two axles on a tandem trailer and the proper weight I have found and documented is around 300 to 400 lbs of weight on each jack stand.
Larry