Forum Discussion
MEXICOWANDERER
Dec 20, 2020Explorer
GDtrailer makes some excellent points. Here are some more...
Check with a flashlight into a cell to make sure the battery has not frozen. Jumping a frozen battery invites an explosion.
Jumper cables for a diesel should be a dead minimum of FOUR AWG solid copper. And even then, a solid TEN MINUTES of charging should be the minimum time to allow the batteries to charge. Ponder the point. Twenty feet or more of four gauge starter cable cannot support cold weather engine cranking. Let the engine batteries charge up enough to carry the majority of the cranking load.
Cranking the other guy's engine with yours risks blowing the hell out of your nightmare to replace ECU. I have serviced far too many no start or limp home misfits that reportedly had jumped started another vehicle the week prior. Jump to charge a battery, disconnect the cables then crank the affected vehicle. Insist the other driver exit his vehicle before jumping his vehicle. Too many prove to be utterly stupid and despite clear instructions go against your wishes.
I made a fortune in the seventies and eighties jump-starting notoriously hard to jump start vehicles at high altitudes and bitter cold temperatures. I used a series paired 8-D and 7-D batteries 300 pounds of fully charged 14 volts plus 2/0 jumper cables. It all cranked early Ford 6.9 Ford diesels with 17MT Delco non gear reduction starter motors. Plus a glow plug override. I had a Cole Hersee inline lever switch rated 1,000 amps in line. With the advent of ULSD gelled diesel today is less of a problem.
My toad has a gear reduction ND starter so 80 amps boost is all it needs to crank when it's 70F. Cold weather cranking will forever remain unknown on purpose.
Check with a flashlight into a cell to make sure the battery has not frozen. Jumping a frozen battery invites an explosion.
Jumper cables for a diesel should be a dead minimum of FOUR AWG solid copper. And even then, a solid TEN MINUTES of charging should be the minimum time to allow the batteries to charge. Ponder the point. Twenty feet or more of four gauge starter cable cannot support cold weather engine cranking. Let the engine batteries charge up enough to carry the majority of the cranking load.
Cranking the other guy's engine with yours risks blowing the hell out of your nightmare to replace ECU. I have serviced far too many no start or limp home misfits that reportedly had jumped started another vehicle the week prior. Jump to charge a battery, disconnect the cables then crank the affected vehicle. Insist the other driver exit his vehicle before jumping his vehicle. Too many prove to be utterly stupid and despite clear instructions go against your wishes.
I made a fortune in the seventies and eighties jump-starting notoriously hard to jump start vehicles at high altitudes and bitter cold temperatures. I used a series paired 8-D and 7-D batteries 300 pounds of fully charged 14 volts plus 2/0 jumper cables. It all cranked early Ford 6.9 Ford diesels with 17MT Delco non gear reduction starter motors. Plus a glow plug override. I had a Cole Hersee inline lever switch rated 1,000 amps in line. With the advent of ULSD gelled diesel today is less of a problem.
My toad has a gear reduction ND starter so 80 amps boost is all it needs to crank when it's 70F. Cold weather cranking will forever remain unknown on purpose.
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