Hi Friends,I love my Magnum inverter. The converter/charger is far superior to our OEM and the inverter has served us perfectly. My only issue is that our installer didn't wire it to the battery cutoff switch, so the Remote panel creates a phantom draw in storage. The user's guide reads like The Handbook For The Recently Deceased from Beetlejuice, so I haven't found my answer in the docs. Does anyone know of a way to cut power to the remote panel? Is there an on/off function?

I would think disconnecting a battery cable should handle it.

article says A 12-volt disconnect switch was added to the inverter to disconnect power to the inverter during storage or when servicing the unit. Magnum inverter install or add this at the battery Battery Master Disconnect Switch your current battery cutoff switch may not be able to handle the current of the inverter. on another forum i read this power draw wrote:The measured Magnum inverter power draw when it is "OFF" is 400mA (to keep the remote panel alive)

One of the short comings of the Magnum units is that they cannot be turned off. Mine draws about 0.5A which from an storage or dry camping perspective is excessive. With the high amp draw inverter capability I would not install the above linked cutoff battery switch. I installed a 300A $23 Blue Seas switch on my battery post. For flooded batteries the switch should be mounted away from battery fumes. Click For Full-Size Image.

1. UNLESS your Inverter draws less than 100 amps DC current in Invert operation, you NEVER install a battery disconnect on the Feed Positive cable to the Inverter2. You can install a 200 amp rated Disconnect switch if you have the smaller 1000 to 1500 Watt Magnum Inverters. 3. A quick way to disconnect the remote is either go to the Inverter and disconnect the Phone Type remote cable, takes 5 seconds. OR pull the remote panel and disconnect the same cable. Takes 3 or 4 minutes. 4. Disconnect the Negative cable at your House Batteries when storing. This is the BEST solution as most OEM's also route the LP/CO detector direct to the batteries and are not turned OFF when the battery disconnect is used. Doug

dougrainer wrote:1. UNLESS your Inverter draws less than 100 amps DC current in Invert operation, you NEVER install a battery disconnect on the Feed Positive cable to the InverterWhy? Is their a concern about the switch mV drop?2. You can install a 200 amp rated Disconnect switch if you have the smaller 1000 to 1500 Watt Magnum Inverters. 3. A quick way to disconnect the remote is either go to the Inverter and disconnect the Phone Type remote cable, takes 5 seconds. OR pull the remote panel and disconnect the same cable. Takes 3 or 4 minutes.What is the inverter draw vs the remote only draw?If I was going to start disconnecting the cable I'd install some additional cables and a FF connector at a convenient point for disconnection. 4. Disconnect the Negative cable at your House Batteries when storing. This is the BEST solution as most OEM's also route the LP/CO detector direct to the batteries and are not turned OFF when the battery disconnect is used. Plus the negative post/wire is always the best considering safety.Doug

Kill power to Magnum remote? | Good Sam Community

wires
Explorer
Sep 12, 2017
FYI just killing power to the Magnum remote isn't enough to stop the standby loss since the inverter's parasitic current is more than the remote's.

I am using a Blue Sea ML-RBS Remote Battery Switch Solenoid with Manual Control model #7700 to disconnect the batteries in my rig. It is rated at 500 Amps continuous duty (700A intermittent).

I have it wired on the positive lead just after the batteries. It's ahead of a Magnum 3000W inverter and also the main lead for the coach 12V circuits.

This is a slick setup. The remote switch is inside mounted adjacent to my inverter panel so when storing after a trip I can completely disconnect power to the Inverter and all 12V circuits by simply pressing a button. There is no need to open any compartments or the battery box.

The ML-RBS also has a mechanical interlock lever so power can be locked out safely if you are doing service work.

It uses a mechanical latching design so it doesn't consume any power itself other than when you are pressing the on or off button.

If you don't need the remote capability then Blue Sea has manual disconnect switches rated up to 500 Amps which would be suitable for up to a 3000W inverter.
GordonThree
Explorer
Sep 12, 2017
Does killing the Magnum clear its battery history and BMK calibration? I know it resets part of the fault log as well as time and date.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Sep 12, 2017
GordonThree wrote:
Does killing the Magnum clear its battery history and BMK calibration? I know it resets part of the fault log as well as time and date.
My ME2012 remembers it's settings. I don't have the BMK as the Trimetric is better suited to my needs.
wires
Explorer
Sep 12, 2017
GordonThree wrote:
Does killing the Magnum clear its battery history and BMK calibration? I know it resets part of the fault log as well as time and date.

Killing power to the BMK will cause it to lose its calibration. You'll see "Think'n" after reconnecting it until it recalibrates itself.

I cut power to the inverter but not the BMK when I leave the storage lot. The BMK itself draws around 0.02 amps which isn't a significant amount. That way when the main inverter power is reconnected the SOC value is still working.
GordonThree
Explorer
Sep 12, 2017
wires wrote:
GordonThree wrote:
Does killing the Magnum clear its battery history and BMK calibration? I know it resets part of the fault log as well as time and date.

Killing power to the BMK will cause it to lose its calibration. You'll see "Think'n" after reconnecting it until it recalibrates itself.

I cut power to the inverter but not the BMK when I leave the storage lot. The BMK itself draws around 0.02 amps which isn't a significant amount. That way when the main inverter power is reconnected the SOC value is still working.

This makes sense. I forgot that module has its own power independent of the inverter. Thanks!

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