Okay I've read and reread your edited post a few times now.
Don't let your optic nerve get stretched too much with the eye rolling of the following questions. Remember I do not have a background in this stuff.
My 50/120 alternator has two field wire connections. To one of these comes a wire from the Transpo VR's "F" terminal. The other alternator field terminal stud gets a new wire run to the alternator casing ground?
My existing field wires, one is Z1 system voltage on a light blue 14awg wire, the other field wire is green 14awg, it goes into the ECM. The 'trick the ECM resistor' is to be wired between these two existing wires after removal from alternator to keep the CEL/MIL light off.
So I run another 14awg light blue wire from Z1 hub to the "S" terminal on the VR as my switched ignition. Any fuse needed?
The Transpo VR case gets well grounded directly to Alternator casing. Mine does have a (-) stud.
"chop the alternator brush field terminal with dikes" WTF does this mean? Am I to be modifying the 50/120 alternator internally to get this regulator to work? I'd like to be able to disconnect the 'trick the ECM' resistor and return VR duty to the ECM if needed without removing alternator from vehicle.
Ignore the idiot light terminal, done.
A: battery reference always hot. I do have upgraded cable, but it might be just as easy to run a wire right to battery(+), or at least my 'common' feed on my Blueseas 1/2/both/off switch. Am Assuming this wire carries little current, can be thin?
Now you know my desire to reach the VR's potentiometer from the driver's seat. I am assuming I can either drill a hole in the casing over the pot and have a non electrically conductive means to twist the pot, or perhaps I can desolder the pot and run wires in its place to a larger remotely mounted Pot. No doubt the VR is potted, what are the chances of desoldering. I did this successfully on the cheapowatt and Meanwell. But they were not potted.
I'm not afraid to mount the VR where accessible for pot twiddling from driver's seat, but I'd rather have a remote Pot right next to my digital voltmeter on the dash, and the VR casing will not mount right here easily/cleanly, without looking like a big wart. I'd like to have it hidden behind dashboard. Any benefit to additional heatsinking?
Kind of feeling like I am opening a can of worms just to get my voltage regulation in line with 'Ideal' desires, but I am learning. I've always hated knowing that if the VR inside the ECM goes belly up I'd have to do something like this anyway, but I was planning on using the standard Mopar external regulator, not trying to make a heavier duty Ford regulator work in its place.
