My 50/120 alternator has two field wire connections. To one of these comes a wire from the Transpo VR's "F" terminal. The other alternator field terminal stud gets a new wire run to the alternator casing ground? PERFECT
My existing field wires, one is Z1 system voltage on a light blue 14awg wire, the other field wire is green 14awg, it goes into the ECM. The 'trick the ECM resistor' is to be wired between these two existing wires after removal from alternator to keep the CEL/MIL light off. I WOULD MUCH PREFER TO NOT FOOL WITH THAT CONNECTION. FIND ANOTHER IGNITION SOURCE BUY NOT IGNITION COIL POSITIVE. VOLTAGE LEVEL TO THIS THE "I" TERMINAL IS NOT CRITICAL.
"chop the alternator brush field terminal with dikes" WTF does this mean? Am I to be modifying the 50/120 alternator internally to get this regulator to work? I'd like to be able to disconnect the 'trick the ECM' resistor and return VR duty to the ECM if needed without removing alternator from vehicle. BELAY MY SUGGESTION BECAUSE OF YOUR STATEMENT THAT THE RESISTOR GOES IN THOSE TWO WIRES. REFER TO MY ANSWER ABOVE. FOLLOW THE AFTERMARKET GIZMO INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY,
Now you know my desire to reach the VR's potentiometer from the driver's seat. I am assuming I can either drill a hole in the casing over the pot and have a non electrically conductive means to twist the pot, or perhaps I can desolder the pot and run wires in its place to a larger remotely mounted Pot. No doubt the VR is potted, what are the chances of desoldering. I did this successfully on the cheapowatt and Meanwell. But they were not potted. THIS IS GOING TO REQUIRE PATIENCE. THE POT IS FLUSH WITH THE POTTING. BY TINY DRILLING AROUND THE PERIPHERY OF THE POT, IT CAN BE MADE LOOSE FROM THE POTTING. YOU NEED TO DISSECT THE POT WITH FLUSH CUTTING PLIERS FROM THE OUTSIDE EDGE, INWARDS. PRACTICE TILL PERFECT ON A SIMILAR SACRIFICIAL POT OR TWO TO GET THE PROTOCOL DONE IN RELIABLE FASHION. A 1k VALUE POT IS PLENTY. UNLIKE THE MEGWATT ET AL THE HIGHER THE RESISTANCE THE HIGHER THE VOLTAGE. PRESET THE REPLACEMENT TO 200 OHMS ON STARTUP. USE JB QUICKWELD TO RE-POT ONLY AFTER A COMPLETE PROOFING OF MODIFICATION RELIABILITY AFTER INSTALLATION.
I'm not afraid to mount the VR where accessible for pot twiddling from driver's seat, but I'd rather have a remote Pot right next to my digital voltmeter on the dash, and the VR casing will not mount right here easily/cleanly, without looking like a big wart. I'd like to have it hidden behind dashboard. Any benefit to additional heatsinking? IF MEMORY SERVES THE VALUE OF THE VOLTAGE DIVIDER NETWORK WAS <.03 AMP
Kind of feeling like I am opening a can of worms just to get my voltage regulation in line with 'Ideal' desires, but I am learning. I've always hated knowing that if the VR inside the ECM goes belly up I'd have to do something like this anyway, but I was planning on using the standard Mopar external regulator, not trying to make a heavier duty Ford regulator work in its place. THE TRANSPO AND EVERY OTHER EXTERNAL MOPAR REGULATOR HAD THEIR OWN SIGNIFICANT WEAK LINKS. YOU WOULD NEED TO WIRE IN A RELIABLE RELAY THEN START DIGGING INTO THE 8313 POTTING. I REPLACED UNCOUNTED MOPAR REGS WITH THE F540 SERIES ELIMINATING THE NEED OF A RELAY. MOPAR PLUGS WITH SPRING STEEL RETAINER ARE NOT AVAILABLE. I HAD GIVEN THIS A LITTLE THOUGHT BEFORE RECOMMENDING A REG TO YOU.
THE STANDARD MOPAR REG SET POINT IS 14.4 VOLTS.
