Leaving unit plugged in 24/7

I could leave my rig plugged in 24/7 but since I'm not running any appliances, I let the solar charging maintain my batteries.

If your converter supplies a float voltage above 13.6 V, you'll need to monitor electrolyte levels, occasionally, if using flooded batteries.

If you live in Northern climes, you'll want to make sure that you have continuous float voltage or monitor the battery's State Of Charge to insure that the batteries don't discharge and freeze.

We are STILL posting what we do with our electrical system. The OP's may be VERY different.

Smart vs "stupid" converter or charger should dictate what the OP does, NOT what we do with perhaps different systems.

Again, if the OP comes back and posts exactly what equipment they have, we can certainly offer sage advice for THEIR RV.

My post was pertaining to lead acid batteries, not SLA, or agm, same thing.
I had bought 2 35 AH EV agms from Batteries Plus. I been floating them at the normal 13.2. So I just called Batts Plus, and they advised all their AGMs should float at 13.3 max, but that is at 68 deg room temp.
So I would still wonder why float higher, and take the chance of drying them up prematurely. One AGN floats higher than another AGM ?? Why ? Because the MFG thinks so ? What will his thought be next year ?

Plugged in most of the time... fridge is turned off over winter with doors open.

Rich,

What you're mentioning above probably does not apply to AGM dry lead acid batteries, as no gases or fumes of any kind leave them unless their internal pressure gets high enough to force their one-way valve open a bit here and there.

To open this valve would most likely take higher continuous voltages than the common 13.2 float voltage value at just about any temperatues one could stand to drive in or camp in.

However, it looks to me like the internal chemistry in AGM batteries can in fact be adjusted by design. For example, I matched my AGM batteries' 77 degree recommended float voltage to my charger's nominal 77 degree output voltage to make sure my batteries's valves would most likely never open during long floats at all conceivable ambient temperatures. This 77 degree float voltage value for my batteries is 13.6 volts, not the common liquid acid float voltage of 13.2 volts. I did not purchase Lifeline AGM batteries because their specified float voltage was the common 13.2 volts used for liquid lead acid batteries. I called them and they refused to budge on this specified float voltage - stating that their AGM batteries would slowly "dry out" (i.e. lose water vapor throuugh their one-way valve) over time if floated at 13.6 volts over their lifetime. Hence, I purchased another brand of AGM battery.

Believe anything you want to. But I'm tellin you that lead acid batteries all have the same float voltage, what ever that mite be. They all use the same electrolyte, and that is what determines the proper float voltage, not just because the battery has a different name on it, or that a MFG decides to try something different for a change ??

There is no way a batt MFG can give a correct float voltage w/o giving the ambient temperature along w/ it. Truth be known, (find a chart) proper float voltage is cold weather will be well over 14 volts, where as in hot weather it better not be over 13.2.
Now, there goes your batt MFGs recommended float voltages !!
So, go ahead and float your batteries (any) at 13.6 in hot weather, and see what happens !

And then there are so many here that have been falsely led into thinking that floating at too hi a voltage, is no problem, as long as you keep pouring water to them,....as if water is the only thing leaving the battery ?? Well, what is that nasty acid smell when a battery is floating at 13.8 in hot weather ??
I, and I'd bet many others have proved years ago that having to water a battery often, will shorten its life by a lot !

dawzie wrote:
Have a 2016 Montana 293RK purchased 7/16. Plugged in most of the time 24/7. Have a WFCO WF-9800 series converter. My fan runs variable speed and only on load. Fan is starting to growl when it runs, so adding that to repair list when we return to the northeast.

Did not know there are batteries with different float charge rating. My dealer installed a NAPA RV battery, so I will check into that.

Have a 2016 Montana 293RK purchased 7/16. Plugged in most of the time 24/7. Have a WFCO WF-9800 series converter. My fan runs variable speed and only on load. Fan is starting to growl when it runs, so adding that to repair list when we return to the northeast.

Did not know there are batteries with different float charge rating. My dealer installed a NAPA RV battery, so I will check into that.

Our motorhome sits in the backyard when we're not using it. It's plugged into an outside outlet on the house all the time and the converter in the motorhome is switched into the motorhome's 12V system 24/7 - except for maybe during a run of extremely hot days in the summer.

HOWEVER, I use only batteries in the motorhome that are specified to be floated at the same voltage as the stock converter puts out - around 13.6 volts DC. Many batteries used in RVs are specified to be floated at around 13.2 volts DC. I'm careful not to use these in our rig.

The set of batteries in the RV that we last replaced went around 8 years and when we replaced them they were still working fairly well, but we replaced them "just in case".

Yes I've also been told that keeping the unit plugged in and using the fridge does promote longevity vs letting everything set and powering it on for just a couple of days then sit again.

Yes I always keep an eye on the battery. And again the manufacturer says the fan should not run with no load applied . I appreciate everyone s input but this thread was more about keeping the unit plugged in, not so much about the converter.