Looking To Add Solar Down The Road
I am planning on adding solar down the road from now. Would like to see if I am on the right tract. I want to install three Kyocera 140 watt panels flat on top. Wired in parallel to a BlueSky 2000E, t...
Forum Discussion
I thought the OP must already have that 2000E so that is why he plans to use it. If not, then yes, don't get one!
Also you don't need to see the controller(s) to monitor the system as mentioned in the OP. You have a Trimetric and it is easy to derive how much of what you see on that is due to solar. This makes your wiring concern controller-battery go away. Just put the controller(s) close to the battery bank.
-Since you will have more solar than you use there is no point trying to get an extra 10% by going MPPT instead of PWM where you pay way more for the MPPT controller.
-If you did insist on MPPT then you might want to put the panels in series, but now you need a controller with a very high Voc input limit for three times 22v so need more like a 100Voc limit.
Anyway, three 140s flat will not get you Isc (8.8a? for a 140) so your expected amps will be more like 8a each for 24a total. I have been using the PWM Solar30 controller for a month now and really like it. (cost $34 on sale eBay) It has an adjustable voltage (to 15v) and even has an ammeter so you can read panel output. Makes it easy to see how much of what you see on the Trimetric is due to solar.
If you are concerned about going over 30a on some days, you can get two PWM controllers and put one on two panels and the other on the one panel and put both on the battery bank. Same total charging amps.
I would expect a PWM controller to let the amps through to the battery over its amps rating but just run warmer. For short times this would not harm the controller. You do get edge of cloud effect that boosts the amps for a few minutes at a time. ( If the controller ever did fry, you are only out $34--not like frying a $400 controller--oops, that would hurt!)
Also you don't need to see the controller(s) to monitor the system as mentioned in the OP. You have a Trimetric and it is easy to derive how much of what you see on that is due to solar. This makes your wiring concern controller-battery go away. Just put the controller(s) close to the battery bank.
-Since you will have more solar than you use there is no point trying to get an extra 10% by going MPPT instead of PWM where you pay way more for the MPPT controller.
-If you did insist on MPPT then you might want to put the panels in series, but now you need a controller with a very high Voc input limit for three times 22v so need more like a 100Voc limit.
Anyway, three 140s flat will not get you Isc (8.8a? for a 140) so your expected amps will be more like 8a each for 24a total. I have been using the PWM Solar30 controller for a month now and really like it. (cost $34 on sale eBay) It has an adjustable voltage (to 15v) and even has an ammeter so you can read panel output. Makes it easy to see how much of what you see on the Trimetric is due to solar.
If you are concerned about going over 30a on some days, you can get two PWM controllers and put one on two panels and the other on the one panel and put both on the battery bank. Same total charging amps.
I would expect a PWM controller to let the amps through to the battery over its amps rating but just run warmer. For short times this would not harm the controller. You do get edge of cloud effect that boosts the amps for a few minutes at a time. ( If the controller ever did fry, you are only out $34--not like frying a $400 controller--oops, that would hurt!)
