Two 6s have the same footprint as two 24s. They are a little taller though and weigh a little more. You would get 232AH instead of 170AH capacity.
The solar controller can go anywhere, but for best results you want a small line loss between it and the batteries which means fatter or shorter wire (or both) You can have longer thinner wire to the panel and still be ok.
If your existing converter output to DC- fuse panel battery lugs are not especially far from the batteries and the fridge, it can be convenient to drop the panel to controller wire pair down the back of the fridge from the roof and over to the DC fuse panel battery lug area.
You put the controller on the wall by the fridge say. The panel wires go to the controller and then the shorter fatter pair of wires go to the battery lugs at the DC fuse panel. This puts the solar and the converter in parallel both feeding the battery lugs and they do not confuse or bother each other, both can be on.
Do not put the converter upstream of the solar controller where the converter's output goes into the panel input side of the controller! The controller and the converter both feed the battery separately in parallel where the solar wires come in downstream from the converter's output on the way to the battery.