Lots of battery corrosion- HELP!
Hi: I'm hoping the folks here could help me solve my problem. Ever since I have had my toy hauler, I have had problems with battery terminal corrision. I assume this was being caused by outgassi...
Forum Discussion
Here goes with a totally different take on your problem with a totally different solution...
1. Brand new GC batteries should have a float voltage of around 13.4 @ 25c
2. Four year old GC batteries require .1 to .2 volt less.
The OVERWHEMING majority of terminal corrosion issues from the sealing joint between the battery lid and the lead post connector that sticks up through the lid. The corrosion is not liquid, it is GAS, that's how it can pass what looks to be a pretty tight seal.
With round post connectors like a car battery the problem is cured by slipping a pair of corrosion inhibitor saturated felt ring pads down the post to act as a gasket before the battery lug or clamp is applied (Then the lug gets sprayed).
In your case (and a lot of others) the odd configuration of the post makes it impossible to fit a ring shaped felt pad gasket.
So a different approach is needed.
Go to the auto parts store and purchase a spay can of ASPHALT BASE UNDERCOATING.
Remove the batteries. Wash them with lots of baking soda and water. Then wash the battery tray and battery hold down apparatus similarly - with lots of water mixed with baking soda.
Let everything dry thoroughly. This will take a hour normally but 22 seconds in a hot Texas summer sun.
With care, shake and mix up the aerosol can. Spray the base of the battery posts and don't spare the horsepower. Gob the black goo on. Avoid spraying the electrical contact area of the post and terminals.
The go spray the battery side of the battery tray, the hold down except for the threads. Let the goo on the battery posts dry overnight then spray them a second time. You aren't screwing around here. This is a one-shot forever seal.
Let everything dry. USE SARAN WRAP as an overlay atop the battery tray to prevent the battery from sticking to the asphalt spray. Assemble the batteries to the tray.
Reconnect the battery wires.
Then spray the livin' bejeezus out of the assembled terminals with a good terminal corrosion spray like LPS-3, GM aerosol corrosion inhibitor or a CRC spray corrosion inhibitor that is sort of hard to find. NoCo spray corrosion inhibitor can also be used. I now use a product from allbatterysales.com that has a corrosion neutralizer built right into it. It dries to a waxy film.
I also treat new or cleaned battery charger clips with corrosion inhibitor.
I don't give a hoot how bad your batteries may become. They can go bad and boil. they can upchuck and throw a hissy fit. They can do whatever they want but those battery posts and battery cable terminals will sit back and have a good laugh. They aren't going to corrode for a decade or maybe two or until the corrosion compound gets washed off.
1. Brand new GC batteries should have a float voltage of around 13.4 @ 25c
2. Four year old GC batteries require .1 to .2 volt less.
The OVERWHEMING majority of terminal corrosion issues from the sealing joint between the battery lid and the lead post connector that sticks up through the lid. The corrosion is not liquid, it is GAS, that's how it can pass what looks to be a pretty tight seal.
With round post connectors like a car battery the problem is cured by slipping a pair of corrosion inhibitor saturated felt ring pads down the post to act as a gasket before the battery lug or clamp is applied (Then the lug gets sprayed).
In your case (and a lot of others) the odd configuration of the post makes it impossible to fit a ring shaped felt pad gasket.
So a different approach is needed.
Go to the auto parts store and purchase a spay can of ASPHALT BASE UNDERCOATING.
Remove the batteries. Wash them with lots of baking soda and water. Then wash the battery tray and battery hold down apparatus similarly - with lots of water mixed with baking soda.
Let everything dry thoroughly. This will take a hour normally but 22 seconds in a hot Texas summer sun.
With care, shake and mix up the aerosol can. Spray the base of the battery posts and don't spare the horsepower. Gob the black goo on. Avoid spraying the electrical contact area of the post and terminals.
The go spray the battery side of the battery tray, the hold down except for the threads. Let the goo on the battery posts dry overnight then spray them a second time. You aren't screwing around here. This is a one-shot forever seal.
Let everything dry. USE SARAN WRAP as an overlay atop the battery tray to prevent the battery from sticking to the asphalt spray. Assemble the batteries to the tray.
Reconnect the battery wires.
Then spray the livin' bejeezus out of the assembled terminals with a good terminal corrosion spray like LPS-3, GM aerosol corrosion inhibitor or a CRC spray corrosion inhibitor that is sort of hard to find. NoCo spray corrosion inhibitor can also be used. I now use a product from allbatterysales.com that has a corrosion neutralizer built right into it. It dries to a waxy film.
I also treat new or cleaned battery charger clips with corrosion inhibitor.
I don't give a hoot how bad your batteries may become. They can go bad and boil. they can upchuck and throw a hissy fit. They can do whatever they want but those battery posts and battery cable terminals will sit back and have a good laugh. They aren't going to corrode for a decade or maybe two or until the corrosion compound gets washed off.
