Mixing Batteries on Float-- Mex Test Update 2
UPDATE 1 on 23 Dec post UPDATE 2 on 25 Dec post ---------- Mex is driving me crazy! He said do not mix my used 12s (Scrubber batteries, he calls them--humph! They are respectable golf car batte...
Forum Discussion
Ain't it fun? Welcome to the world of trends-and-tendencies.
A >.200vdc cell slump is the culprit that would cause an internal draw, I didn't see that kind of value in your report. But as long as you are in-test-mode, let them set for another week and see what happens. You have great quality acid and what I suspect is a measurable amount of antimony poisoning of the negative plates. There is no cure for that, sadly.
Batteries that droop to 12.4 volts after 2 weeks in 20C temperatures, are energy wasters.
Battery OEM's hated me when I hit them with these kinds of tests. They want smileys and pure BCI parameters for tests.
Basically, a pure voltage sag test that you're doing BFL13 can be augmented with a controlled 1 amp recharge rate, measuring kWh needed to raise voltage to 14.4 which is a standard bulk charge and automotive alternator recharge value.
This is great that you guys are interested in tests like this. I call the process of learning "B.S. PROOFING" battery condition.
1. Load Test
2. Hydrometer Test
3. Voltage slump and kWh recharge test.
The one amp (2 or 3 amps is acceptable) recharge kWh test is easy to do. Stop charging when voltage stabilizes at 14.4 then see how many kWh have accumulated.
This test can be performed on VRB accumulators as well. albeit with different values used.
A >.200vdc cell slump is the culprit that would cause an internal draw, I didn't see that kind of value in your report. But as long as you are in-test-mode, let them set for another week and see what happens. You have great quality acid and what I suspect is a measurable amount of antimony poisoning of the negative plates. There is no cure for that, sadly.
Batteries that droop to 12.4 volts after 2 weeks in 20C temperatures, are energy wasters.
Battery OEM's hated me when I hit them with these kinds of tests. They want smileys and pure BCI parameters for tests.
Basically, a pure voltage sag test that you're doing BFL13 can be augmented with a controlled 1 amp recharge rate, measuring kWh needed to raise voltage to 14.4 which is a standard bulk charge and automotive alternator recharge value.
This is great that you guys are interested in tests like this. I call the process of learning "B.S. PROOFING" battery condition.
1. Load Test
2. Hydrometer Test
3. Voltage slump and kWh recharge test.
The one amp (2 or 3 amps is acceptable) recharge kWh test is easy to do. Stop charging when voltage stabilizes at 14.4 then see how many kWh have accumulated.
This test can be performed on VRB accumulators as well. albeit with different values used.
