More Schwintec problems

fpresto wrote:
You said that "If I use the controller to override the system, it goes in and out as smooth as silk." That would tend to eliminate the slide out of square or the jacks causing binding. I suggest that you calibrate the slide:
1. With slide in.
2. Press Slide Extend button three times very fast to get in program mode.
3. Immediately press Slide Retract button and hold until motor stops making sound.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 five times.

You can reverse these procedures If the slide is out.

It is not well covered but ALWAYS HOLD THE BUTTON IN FOR AT LEAST 5 SECONDS AFTER THE SLIDE STOPS MOVING. EITHER RETRACTING OR EXTENDING. This will keep the motors calibrated. Make every effort to not stop part way when either opening or closing.

Not true. ALL the Override does is STOP the counting procedure. The counting procedure will STOP a room if it gets slightly out of time(caused by binding). The override is designed to get the room in if you have a defective harness or connection. Of course if the 2 Motor power wires are the ones with a fault the override will not work. The system in override WILL operate the slide when out of square. Doug

Ralph Cramden wrote:
It could be the alignment is off between the slide and opening or between the racks themselves. This system is not very forgiving when they have some idiot installing them at the factory on a piecework basis, who cares more about how many he does a day as opposed to if they actually work.

Download every piece of info and manual at Lippert.

What do the teeth on the racks look like? It's easy to mistake aluminum dust from the gears grinding on the racks for lubricant when they are not aligned correctly.

Measure from bottom rack to top rack, those should be the same / parallel, and a specific dimension based on the configuration of the bearing blocks.

Measure length of the box itself top and bottom, and diagonally corner to corner for square, same with the opening. I don't have my info handy but there is a dimension the box needs to be smaller in relation to the opening, I think it's 4 1/2" shorter than opening width. 2 1/4" per side from memory, check the Lippert manuals. There is not much fudge factor here.

Are the columns mounted parallel with each other? That can be a tough measurement to check depending on the unit.

I have repaired / re aligned at least a dozen and about half the time have ended up having to remove the slide. It's a lot of trial and error. A few we have done were so far out of whack from the factory it's amazing they ever worked at all. You could watch the slide twist while extending it due to being out of alignment.

Another quick check is to disengage the motors and see how it feels moving the slide by hand. This takes two people on a large slide. I have also found that the larger the slide, the more problematic they usually are. Lots of brands cheaped out using these on large slides, and have since went back to a conventional through the frame or other type.

I'm not a fan of anything Lippert but a lot of the time Schwintek issues can be traced back to the OEM installation.

Yes, I checked the slide for squareness and the distance between the rails and the frame are inside the one and three eights inches and one and five eights inches that is required.

joebedford wrote:
Have you tried a continuity check on the cables?

Yes, the cables have been checked for continuity. If there was a short, the controller would alert us but there are no codes being given.

You said that "If I use the controller to override the system, it goes in and out as smooth as silk." That would tend to eliminate the slide out of square or the jacks causing binding. I suggest that you calibrate the slide:
1. With slide in.
2. Press Slide Extend button three times very fast to get in program mode.
3. Immediately press Slide Retract button and hold until motor stops making sound.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 five times.

You can reverse these procedures If the slide is out.

It is not well covered but ALWAYS HOLD THE BUTTON IN FOR AT LEAST 5 SECONDS AFTER THE SLIDE STOPS MOVING. EITHER RETRACTING OR EXTENDING. This will keep the motors calibrated. Make every effort to not stop part way when either opening or closing.

When a Scwintek operates as your does. (I looked at the History and what you have done). Odds are the room and sidewall cutout are NOT square. This is critical for correct Scwintek operation. Another thing that causes your type problem is having the leveling Jack system extended. Do you have a leveling jack system? If so, depending on where the jacks are located and extended, they may put pressure on the frame and causing the slide hole cutout to warp and bind the room. The fix is to always extend and retract your rooms BEFORE you level the unit. Another cause of your type problem has to do with the FRAME not having the correct Camber(NOT level and straight) due to inadequate Gauge Steel and reinforcements. The quick way to tell is to jack up the rear of the unit a few inches and see if the room operates correctly. If so, you have a larger issue and will require the LCI Mobile tech team to fix the Camber. This is NEVER a warranty item by LCI. LCI probably builds the frame but they build the frames to the OEM specs. When LCI does come out and fix a camber issue, they bill the OEM if it is a warranty issue. Not warranty, you pay. Another thing that happens is, when they install the room and screw down the outside flanges to the sidewall, they do it in a "bind". What you do to check for this is to verify that the room has the same distance at the top and bottom between the tracks. You can visual this by looking at the wipe seals between the tracks. If they have the same gap within 1.8 to 3/16 inches it is installed correctly. IF NOT, THAT is your problem. You can go to LCI's webpage and find the Lip Sheets for the various check out diagnosis and alignment parameters for the slide system. Doug

One thing to remember on these, always keep the button pressed until the motors shut themselves off- don't just release the switch as soon as the room hits the limit.n

Also, you can download the MyLCI app for Android or iOS which has all of the manuals and parts lists.

It could be the alignment is off between the slide and opening or between the racks themselves. This system is not very forgiving when they have some idiot installing them at the factory on a piecework basis, who cares more about how many he does a day as opposed to if they actually work.

Download every piece of info and manual at Lippert.

What do the teeth on the racks look like? It's easy to mistake aluminum dust from the gears grinding on the racks for lubricant when they are not aligned correctly.

Measure from bottom rack to top rack, those should be the same / parallel, and a specific dimension based on the configuration of the bearing blocks.

Measure length of the box itself top and bottom, and diagonally corner to corner for square, same with the opening. I don't have my info handy but there is a dimension the box needs to be smaller in relation to the opening, I think it's 4 1/2" shorter than opening width. 2 1/4" per side from memory, check the Lippert manuals. There is not much fudge factor here.

Are the columns mounted parallel with each other? That can be a tough measurement to check depending on the unit.

I have repaired / re aligned at least a dozen and about half the time have ended up having to remove the slide. It's a lot of trial and error. A few we have done were so far out of whack from the factory it's amazing they ever worked at all. You could watch the slide twist while extending it due to being out of alignment.

Another quick check is to disengage the motors and see how it feels moving the slide by hand. This takes two people on a large slide. I have also found that the larger the slide, the more problematic they usually are. Lots of brands cheaped out using these on large slides, and have since went back to a conventional through the frame or other type.

I'm not a fan of anything Lippert but a lot of the time Schwintek issues can be traced back to the OEM installation.

Have you tried a continuity check on the cables?

what you are describing is the board is saying the motors are outvof sync.Try a system reset and when you let it in and out let it do its thing dont stop it as it throws the computer off

Subscribing.
I have the system on our new TT and have been lucky so far.
I'm trying to learn from all these posts before I have to jump in head deep.