Forum Discussion
djousma
Dec 15, 2016Explorer
otrfun wrote:
(snip)
My 2nd reason for adding antifreeze directly to the FW tank is my rig requires the removal of a basement wall to access the water pump inlet.
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Thanks again!
Otrfun,
Many of the newer trailers with a water docking station (i.e. all the knobs) have a winterize setting that does the water heater bypass, and allows for sucking the antifreeze directly from the bottle.
The way you did it, is the *safest* way, for the reasons you mention, but does take a lot more AF, and flushing in the spring. I don't know exactly what RV you have, but here is an example of my Cardinal's docking station:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f22/winterizing-newer-cardinals-with-nautilus-p1-water-management-system-119957.html
If you have a docking station, I'd chase down the maker of that component, and there are very likely specific winterization instructions on how to use it properly, because for me there were additional steps that weren't necessarily intuitive. I was removing panels on my basement walls too looking for the water heater bypass, and there wasn't any, Until it occurred to me that the bypass is built into the docking station valve settings.
As for those that just do blow-outs with air, that is really not a reliable method in the newer RVs with residential refridgerators with ice makers, and water through the door, or units with Clothes washers. I used to use that method in my old travel trailer, where all I had was a water pump, kitchen, and bathroom sinks, and a toilet.
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