As mentioned before, most people who install charge controllers in a RV are cognoscente of line drops and and know that a 1% drop is equivalent to losing 1% of PV power. The cable will be beefy. There will be minimal drop and no big deal in lost charge times.
As far as additional loads, well that's why I said 'in most cases'. They are usually short lived. Once you're in absorption, does it really matter if battery voltage is 100 mV lower when a heavy load turns on?
The point is that you might get to absorption maybe half a volt early if you have too much drop in your cabling, and stay half a volt low if your controller is supplying a lot of current after the transition. Does that matter? Yes.
Perhaps you feel compelled to add sense because the big boys do it? You got a 300W max unit? I question if it's cost effective for lower power units to add a sense circuit.
The new unit can handle almost 2000w with a 48v battery bank. The old unit could handle about 1000w. I think battery sense is a useful addition, and doesn't add that much extra cost.
My offer still stands to test your unit. Don't want to keep it, just offering to test and give you fair publicity if warranted.
No thanks.
I realize there's no ground sense line in my 7345 mod. It's not needed. About 80% of the line drop comes from the positive cable. I have a 23 ft MH, and my converter to battery cable is 23 ft long. It snakes all over the place. The ground on the other hand connects to chassis (a good sized frame) through a short cable. It's good. That's how many RV's are built.
Happy that works for you.
