Starting a new thread:Is it OK to mount the controller(Morningstar TS-mppt45) in the front compartment(This is a FW) where the batteries are, they are in there own covered boxes and vented to the outside. That will put them within a foot of the controller. The compartment is open on both sides due to the propane tanks is there is ventilation.

That's what I would do. If it will give you more peace of mind, mount a small fan to blow fresh air in while charging. In that case I say blow in for positive pressure, forcing any acid fumes or hydrogen out the battery box vents.

You can mount the controller on a battery if you have AGMs. Well, not really.

If it is vented, I can't see why this wouldn't be an issue. If worried about the batteries, replace them with AGMs and call it done. As an added bonus, since the MPPT controller doesn't have a fan, the venting helps in keeping the CC cooler.Only thing I'd make sure to have would be proper fuses, but that is just a general all-around safety precaution I take. Even the main positive terminal on my battery gets a catastrophic fuse in case of a dead short.

Can't say about fire hazard - my batteries are AGM.I mounted my MPPT inside, on the bedroom wall, there is very short cable run to batteries from there. I don't use a laptop or remote panel to control the controller :), so it had to be mounted in an accessible location. Front storage is small and full of stuff (it's a trailer), and besides, it's better for controller to stay inside - less marine air.

Mppt Controller mounting | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

Colo_Native
Explorer
Mar 10, 2016
Almot wrote:
Colo Native wrote:
The back of the panel is 15a and I will get the 40a controller. Oh should I get a battery cutoff switch to put by the battery?

Diagram:

Solar panels -> switch -> controller -> breaker -> Pos bus -> battery switch -> battery bank fuse -> battery bank.

Loads -> breaker -> same Pos bus

Inverter -> breaker -> (same Pos bus unless mounted closer to battery).

No need to fuse 2*255W panels. Switch will do. I skipped this switch - solar is always on, and for occasional works I go on the roof and undo one MC4 connector. In series it's enough to disconnect one.

Controller breaker, Pos bus and Loads breaker are all by Midnite Solar and all are installed in the Big Baby box. It's actually a small box but they have one smaller yet. 2 breaker slots remain vacant (one was for planned panels switch), but a smaller "Baby" looked too small for installing both Pos and Neg bus.

Links to MNEPV breakers and insulated Pos and Neg bus are on the same page with Baby.

Battery bank fuse - Battery fuse block, with fuse of required size.

2*255W panels in series with 40A MPPT in Co - maybe, don't know. I would go for 45A.

I meant 45a MPPT
Almot
Explorer III
Mar 10, 2016
Colo Native wrote:
The back of the panel is 15a and I will get the 40a controller. Oh should I get a battery cutoff switch to put by the battery?

Diagram:

Solar panels -> switch -> controller -> breaker -> Pos bus -> battery switch -> battery bank fuse -> battery bank.

Loads -> breaker -> same Pos bus

Inverter -> breaker -> (same Pos bus unless mounted closer to battery).

No need to fuse 2*255W panels. Switch will do. I skipped this switch - solar is always on, and for occasional works I go on the roof and undo one MC4 connector. In series it's enough to disconnect one.

Controller breaker, Pos bus and Loads breaker are all by Midnite Solar and all are installed in the Big Baby box. It's actually a small box but they have one smaller yet. 2 breaker slots remain vacant (one was for planned panels switch), but a smaller "Baby" looked too small for installing both Pos and Neg bus.

Links to MNEPV breakers and insulated Pos and Neg bus are on the same page with Baby.

Battery bank fuse - Battery fuse block, with fuse of required size.

2*255W panels in series with 40A MPPT in Co - maybe, don't know. I would go for 45A.
JiminDenver
Explorer II
Mar 10, 2016
BTW There are a year old set of Lifeline 8-Ds on CL for $500. I bet you could get him down to $400 for the set or $200 for one. I haven't seen too many telcom batteries lately.
JiminDenver
Explorer II
Mar 10, 2016
I'll end up with a cut off/ fuse between the controller and bank, inverter and bank and the trailer 12v panel and bank. There will also be a cut off for the solar.
Colo_Native
Explorer
Mar 10, 2016
I been looking around for fuses and fuse blocks not sure which one or the best one to get. The back of the panel is 15a and I will get the 45a controller. Oh should I get a battery cutoff switch to put by the battery? Thanks
westend
Explorer
Mar 09, 2016
Your location and plan is sound. I wouldn't worry about corrosion on the controller where I live but if you'll be parking near an ocean, there are topical sprays and such that will limit corrosion. Boeshield is one.
scrubjaysnest
Explorer
Mar 09, 2016
That's what I did with a TS-45 PWM. Batteries are vented to outside the compartment. Slight chance of the CC dying there of coarse but haven't seen any corrosion in over a year.
Almot
Explorer III
Mar 09, 2016
Can't say about fire hazard - my batteries are AGM.

I mounted my MPPT inside, on the bedroom wall, there is very short cable run to batteries from there. I don't use a laptop or remote panel to control the controller :), so it had to be mounted in an accessible location. Front storage is small and full of stuff (it's a trailer), and besides, it's better for controller to stay inside - less marine air.
mlts22
Explorer II
Mar 09, 2016
If it is vented, I can't see why this wouldn't be an issue. If worried about the batteries, replace them with AGMs and call it done. As an added bonus, since the MPPT controller doesn't have a fan, the venting helps in keeping the CC cooler.

Only thing I'd make sure to have would be proper fuses, but that is just a general all-around safety precaution I take. Even the main positive terminal on my battery gets a catastrophic fuse in case of a dead short.
time2roll
Nomad
Mar 09, 2016
No troubles in four years.