Hi,
The alternator won't keep up because it "reads" the chassis battery. When that is fully charged, output drops. There are ways around that problem, such as adding an external diode for the "house loads" on the alternator. Too much trouble for me to bother with. A 2nd alternator would work well, too. But that is quite costly, and leaves one with a non standard serpentine belt.
RLS7201 wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
One thing I found when running an Absorption fridger on the inverter (That is an option in this RV) is that the alternator does not provide the house batteries with enough current to maintain them at that high a load. Sorry.
Most RV fridges are 300-400 watt on A/C (And I also have some parasitic loads like the TV/Radio/Sat receiver (no more) and so on) The alternator could not keep up. Run it on propane and be happy
Residential run 100-200 watts now days That it can handle.
Or a high effiency (50 watts and it runs on 12 volt).
Your alternator should be about 130 amps at 1500-1800 engine RPMs.
If it won't keep up with 360 watts, you have a problem.
Properly functioning gas coaches will keep up with running an absorption refrigerator on the electric heaters.
Richard