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Fisherguy's avatar
Fisherguy
Explorer
Jul 02, 2015

My first solar installation, looking for direction

We have a 27 foot Komfort trailer, so far I've ditched the WFCO converter and mounted a PD9280 under the front sofa and use it to charge the 2 - Crown CR-235 golf cart batteries I just put in, I also installed a Xantrex SW-600 inverter which is wired to an Iota transfer switch to all out AC outlets in the trailer. We use that to watch the 26" LCD TV and the satellite receiver, I like to watch the news and (unfortunately) my wife watches a couple soaps every day so in total I'd say we watch a max of 5 hours TV a day. We might watch the odd football or Canucks game as well. We shut down the inverter when the TV's not on.

The inverter and converter are wired to fuses in a weatherproof box on the trailer tongue with 7 ft of 4ga and from there I have a short piece of 2 ga to the batteries. I also have a Trimetric I use to monitor things and a Honda 2000 watt generator to charge the batteries, the shunt is in another weatherproof box on the tongue, we're in BC, we camp May to Sept right now, normally a 3 week trip in June and 3 weeks in Sept, but that will change next year when we'll be retired; we pretty much only dry camp, no hook ups. We make coffee on the stove in a percolator and make toast on the stove as well.

I'd like to install solar panels on the roof, the trailer was pre-wired with 8ga conductors from the fridge vent to the batteries, unfortunately the route they picked means means it's about a 40 ft run to the batteries. I'd like to be able to use this 8ga if possible, if not I could run heavier gauge down the fridge vent and under the trailer to come up again under the sofa at the front of the trailer where I'd like to mount the controller. Someone suggested I could tap into the existing 4 ga from the inverter to the batteries (through the fuse)

A few months ago I got a quote from NAWS for the following:
2-140 watt Kyocera panels, a Midnight Solar Kid 30 amp MPPT controller, Midnight solar combiner with breakers, Z mount brackets, and misc items totalling $1,025 US including shipping.
I'm not thrilled about Z brackets, have been of people making their own L brackets out of alum angle, I like that idea. I was told to wire the panels in series so I could get away with the 8ga I have pre-wired but I've also heard in series my output would really go down if part of 1 panel is shaded, is that true? Being in series means I need the MPPT.

I'm curios about the Solar Cynergy 120 watt panels, I can get 2 of them for the price of 1 Kyocera, they're made in India though, is anyone familiar with them? They're cheap enough maybe I can put 3 of them up there?
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_in...oducts_id=2714

Some have told me the MPPT controllers are a waste of money, that a person is better off with a PWM controller? Either way I'd like to be able to add a 3rd panel later if I need to.

My fishing partner installed a system similar to the one I got the quote for but he was sold a Morningstar Tristar 30 MPPT controller, he also has 4-Trojan 105's. His system worked great on our last trip, his wife watched a lotta TV while we were fishing and he never needed to run his generator once on the 3 week trip, we had a lotta sun that trip, it was hot and not cold enough at night he needed to run his furnace. I like the sound of that, no generator at all!

I can get a 315 panel for $320 US, it's basically 80" x 40", only place it would fit is on the rear left of the trailer, I figure the back is most likely to be in the shade?

I'd ship to Blaine and go pick it up, do that all the time.

I'm sure the system I was quoted would work well for me buy I'm just wondering if I could get away with something a little cheaper, specially with the lousy exchange rate for the Canadian dollar. I wonder why some panels cost twice as much as others, what controller should I use etc, do I need heavier wiring from the panels to the controller etc etc. Any advice for the first timer?
Thanks in advance
Will
  • There are a few Canadians that use solar and frequently post here. At least a few are from BC so can guide you to sellers in your area.
  • Our systems and usage are similar except I have a 40 inch led in the living room and a 24 in the bedroom. Same inverter. I have a remote start Honda 3000 for occasional a/c use so I use it to run the microwave, toaster and hairdryer.

    I have a Trimetric, sc2030 and 4 Cynergy 130 watt panels. I bought the panels off Ebay from Solar Blvd for $620.00 delivered. You already have the Trimetric so maybe the Bogart controller would work for you. The SC 2030 solar controller is small and easy to mount and talks to the trimetric through an RJ14 phone cable. It's fully adjustable and has the ability to equalize.

    I ran 4 gauge from my controller to the roof box about 16 feet away. On the roof I used 2 or 2 1/2 inch aluminum angle cut to about 3 inches long at all 4 corners with the ability to tilt. I used 5/16 SS hardware for the pivot points and drilled the panel frame and installed rivnuts at the corners that would be lifted. Those corners have 5/16 x 18 thread plastic knobs. I used a 1 1/2 sq chunk of plastic with an angle cut under the center of the long side of the frame to keep it from bowing. Now that I have used the system a little I doubt that I will ever tilt and probably should have used Z brackets.

    SC 2030 $120
    Panels $620
    HD plastic box $12
    Plastic strain reliefs $20
    Terminal strips $15
    Aluminum and hardware $60
    Mc4 Y cables $13
    Mc4 10 foot $22
    Mc4 $13
    I had the 4 g cables but just guess they would cost $50
    So under $1,000 for 520 Watts

    I'm learning how to use the settings now but it seems to be a great system. I'm backed under a tree with 1 1/2 of the panels shaded and it still works good. It has been raining for the last 2 days so today will be a good test day as it will be down about 95 amp hours.

    I ran it on 2 panels the other day with it down 40 amp hours or so and it recovered by 3:00 or so. I was impressed how well it did on 260 watts.

    As I play with this system I can try running it more on one or two panels to give you some better numbers if you like. I'm running 4 six volts but I'm also going to run on 1/2 the bank to see how it does. I'm in northern Mich with night temps in the 50's and a decent amount of furnace use.

    Read Bogarts warranty. I take it as a statement of their commitment to quality.

    PWM works just fine so dont get too wrapped up in the mppt argument. Read Bogart and Handybob.


    Handybob

    Edit: I also used the temp compensation cable. Thanks Pianotuna for your emphasis on temp comp.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    You definitely are doing things the way I would do it getting up to the solar panels.. I am currently doing my baby steps doing the DC POWER UPGRADEs getting my OFF-ROAD Trailer ready for solar panels. Good source of Dc POWER, Upgrading to reliable converter/charger unit, adding Inverter and learning how to live with the generator pays off...

    I am assuming you are also learning how to increase your living off the batteries by doing DC power savings things like changing incandescent lights over to LEDs. We are living off the power grid just fine with our 255AH Battery bank.

    We have been doing all of these things over the past 5 years and really have a great understanding what we can do with our DC BATTERY setup now. We are also just now at the point to start adding solar panels to supplement the Generator to keep our battery banks topped off.

    We learned up front the things we can do with the battery banks and have had great success in keeping our 2008 Installed batteries in great shape performance wise. The batteries are just now starting to drop off on performance. The biggest thing we learned was to never allow the battery bank to drop below the 50% charge state and keep them charged to the 90% charge state as soon as possible.

    We start this Battery re-charge process every morning at 8AM when we are usually allowed to run our generator where we camp. This takes three hours of generator run time each morning. This is when we make our coffee stored up in thermos for the day.

    Adding solar for us will reduce our dependency on the generator to about one a hour a day of run time. My battery bank wil demand over 50AMPS of DC current when first gettig hit with 14.4VDC boost charge. After around an hour this DC CURENT demand will have dropped to around 8AMPs. The solar panels will take over the battery bank charge the rest of the high sun day and hopefully get us to the 90% charge before the high sun goes away.

    I am planning to start out with two 120WATT solar panels and eventually add either two additional 120WATT panels later on or maybe just add a larger 240WATT panel. My ultimate goal is to get a good 20AMPS OF DC CURRENT coming from the Solar Panels when in high SUN. This is about all the room I have available for Solar Panels on the roof of my OFF-ROAD trailer.

    Doing all of this using baby steps will insure us we have an excellent built-in PLAN B capable battery bank setup by having both the Generator and Solar Panels to keep the battery bank up.

    The baby steps for us also has been a great learning experience on what to expect when camping off the power grid and what we need to have to do our style of camping.

    I think you are RIGHT ON doing what you are doing...

    Roy Ken
  • Think about it... he doesn't have CHEAP access to all the sellers we do

    even if he gets something low cost ordered from the states the import duties will bring up the cost

    he doesn't have as many choices unless he comes across the border

    don't be so hard..

    he needs a discount Ca dealer or web site
  • 8ga from the panels to controller should work fine
    i think you can buy the panels and controller as separate items and come out cheaper, even in Canada
    last month i bought (3) 100w windy Nation panels on amazon for $138 each
    $448 for 300w
    added these to some existing panels on the RV (removed 3 42w panels),
    everything is wired parallel, using a PWM controller ( i have used both MPPT and PWM at different times)
    definitely cost less to go PWM, and shading will have less effect on the system total

    i would stay away from the large panels, high voltage and must use MPPT, which cuts away at the cost savings of the large panel

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