Forum Discussion

landyacht318's avatar
landyacht318
Explorer
Feb 16, 2014

My Screwy 31

First off let me say I am not stressing over this. It's just a battery, it is only money, it is meeting my overnight needs, but it is displaying strange behavior, and I am curious as to why.

So the battery in question in a USbattery Group31 flooded deep cycle rated at 130 amp hours. I bought it late November last year.

I am cycling it nightly, anywhere from 25 to 70 amp hours, averaging in the low 30's. Recharging is primarily done by 198 watts of solar, sometimes assisted by short duration blasts by the alternator, and occasionally recharged with a 2/12/25 amp Schumacher charger on various settings.

Anyway I have before taken SG readings when various tools indicated they were fully charged and found levels alarmingly low.

I did some rewiring to allow this battery to be recharged independently and isolated and let the Schumacher do whatever it wanted with it a few different times, and this was kind of scary going up into the 16 volt range. However it did get the SG back up into the green at 1.270 or above.

After this treatment, the battery seemed to perform better in terms of overnight voltage held for the same amount removed, and I've been playing with my solar voltage setpoints and monitoring SG every few days (dropping daily) and averaging low 30's overnight amp hour removal.

Anyway the solar yesterday was not quite able to make my amp hour counter return to 0 amp hours from full, so I switched all loads to my other battery and put the Schumacher on the '31 on the 2 amp setting, and it went all happy green light on me quickly. My inline meter said it was taking 2.4 amps at 13.43 volts. I put a 50 amp load on it to drop voltage below 12.6 and restarted the Schumacher. Within a few minutes it had gone all happy green light again, and I left it alone. 6 hours later it was taking 0.4 amps to hold that 13.43. 8 hours after that and the Schumacher was cycling on and off, giving it about .25 amps for about 5 seconds then nothing for 15 seconds to hold 13.43v.

I removed the Schumacher. I waited 4 hours. No loads on battery at all. Voltage reads 13.23.

I bust out the hydrometer and take readings on the 3 easily accessible cells. 1.225, 1.220 and 1.225. Ambient temps in mid 60's battery case reads 64.5f.

This was after a dozen or so bulb squeezings to stir electrolyte, and to get all bubbles off the float. The electrolyte is clear.

Perhaps my Hydrometer is inaccurate I think, so I bust out my plastic one I trust less, but it concurs with the Turkey baster Hydrometer pretty much exactly on all 3 cells.

I bet if I cycle the battery to 50% tonight, then set the Schumacher loose on it tomorrow, it will get the SG back upto the greens.

I just find it bizarre that this battery can refuse any more charging current at acceptable voltages, holds high resting voltages as if fully charged, yet when a SG reading is taken, it is very low.

This seems to me as if this battery likes to be exercised harder and recharged at a higher rate with higher than normal voltages. That shallower cycles and lesser recharging currents make this battery appear to be fully charged, but the SG of the electrolyte says otherwise.

Yet it still meets my overnight needs even when the SG does not get back up into the greens.


I've never monitored SG on any other battery so closely so have no real basis for comparison. My experiences with this particular battery have me curious as to what is going on in there, and perhaps we can all discuss this and fill in some blanks.
  • Quirky behavior can occur with insufficient acid volume plate surface (active) area, or when a just plain bad or crappy-to-begin-with battery. On a lot of these threads I suspect a lot of erratic battery behavior to be due to an accumulator not up to the task for one reason or another.

    This is why a "full diagnostic", full carbon pile load test, hydrometer dip and square wave resistance test, is so important. Personally I've not the time nor the patience to screw around babysitting a cranky battery. It's either old or bad and to the smelter it goes, with afterburners at 100%.

    Building a good battery is an art form as well as an exercise in engineering. Most generic automotive jar cyclable batteries I have tested in the last 20 years are of "Yugo" reliability and construction. Sad to say but true. Some of the wacko characteristics of these types of batteries are forced upon manufacturers because of market pressure. Build them right and nobody will buy them. It is a niche industry that builds excellent reliable accumulators.
  • You might get more sag under load depending on wiring, connections, switches, etc. Switches can have a high R. What matters more is bounce back when the load comes off. If it comes back to previous voltage ok, that is good. It might come back quickly or take a little time depending on the battery.

    My T-1275s seem to have a relaxed sort of approach to that, where they bounce back but take more time to do it than my 6s. Doesn't appear to matter any, it is just their way.
  • Ok, thanks, if this is just a stratification issue, it will be easy enough to test for with some tipping or other physical or electrical agitation.

    I am not particularly impressed with the voltage under load right now, for the amp hours removed.

    11 amp hours from full
    4.3 amp load
    12.34 volts.
  • Land, sometimes i hook my manual charger to the bank just to stir up the acid before taking a SG reading. Nothing too long though. Just a few minutes.
  • I had not considered stratification as the sole reason for this behavior. I remember your tipped '27's, I had some Wallyworld 27 that never required water, and did not stand up long to nightly cycling, though the one delegated to a fully charged engine starter at 2 years, lasted 7 years.

    I really try to mix up the electrolyte with a couple vigorous bulb ejections before I bother focusing on the graduations on the float. Perhaps I overestimate the flow and the mixing going on.

    I have not noticed any significant water use since I've been using this 31. But I am giving it a few hours of 14.0v plus per day, and do notice bubbling when I check SG while it is still charging in the mid 13's late afternoon.

    I have another BlueSeas switch on hand to divert solar from one battery to the other independent of load, I just need to install it.

    Once I do that I can perhaps better observe how the just the physical agitation of driving mixes the electrolyte and SG readings under the same recharge regimen, and independent of vehicular load or alternator charging variables
  • Same deal with my 27DC trolling type (deep cycle-starting) batteries I had. Drove me nuts.

    They would hardly bubble at all when gassing (unlike antimony 6s) so I don't think they were getting destratified under normal charging. They still had their capacity and voltage, so IMO that was with the "good stuff" lower down out of reach of the hydrometer. Stronger acid localized like that eats plates so it isn't the best arrangement.

    I used to tip them on their sides to get a good mix. I kept them in the garage at home between trips doing recoveries on them-- PITA. Not convenient for your situation

    I don't have any bright ideas how to solve that, sorry. I went the 6s route to get away from all that.