need a positive circuit solar controller
or use a DROK voltage buck booster as an intermediate step what i need is a charge controller that controls the V+ output the majority of controllers use common connection for all the Plus connect...
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the "obvious way" means a long run of new wire, via the same route, and placing another controller in that storage bay..the OEM connection is up front behind the hatch/hood
just to supply a maintenance float voltage on the chassis batteries
which are located in the same tray as the OEM house batteries (there are SIX batteries) in that tray, (2) chassis (4) house
the obvious way is what i'm trying to avoid
i can get 13+ float voltage now .
the problem is it is a continuous connection with NO regulation and will back feed the panels and these place a drain after dark because of the double common circuits {i could get the same results wiring direct with NO controller}
the negatives are wire common, the controller is wired positive common, there is NO control, its as if it was bypassed wired with jumpers
it is because the panel NEG is grounded common someplace not separated and brought to the OEM diode location to be attached to the controller
the controller switching the NEG is bypassed, by the way things are wired
the controllers mentioned so far are nice, but cost more than i want to invest , and more amps capability than the panels involved
just to supply a maintenance float voltage on the chassis batteries
which are located in the same tray as the OEM house batteries (there are SIX batteries) in that tray, (2) chassis (4) house
the obvious way is what i'm trying to avoid
i can get 13+ float voltage now .
the problem is it is a continuous connection with NO regulation and will back feed the panels and these place a drain after dark because of the double common circuits {i could get the same results wiring direct with NO controller}
the negatives are wire common, the controller is wired positive common, there is NO control, its as if it was bypassed wired with jumpers
it is because the panel NEG is grounded common someplace not separated and brought to the OEM diode location to be attached to the controller
the controller switching the NEG is bypassed, by the way things are wired
the controllers mentioned so far are nice, but cost more than i want to invest , and more amps capability than the panels involved
