need a positive circuit solar controller
or use a DROK voltage buck booster as an intermediate step what i need is a charge controller that controls the V+ output the majority of controllers use common connection for all the Plus connect...
Forum Discussion
ok thanks
i'm looking at this Buck Boost constant current
or this
boost buck constant current
its a long run from the panels on 16~14ga wire , 15.5v panels measuring 13.8v at the hatch/fuse open circuit (good sun)..12.85 under charge with fuse in circuit no controller ( problem night drain )
under shade tree 9.55voc 0.560amps short circuit
i know can't boost shaded volts & amps .. nothing to work with
just want to stop back feed in shade/night and have usable voltage in the sun
boost to 14v 5amp max ? while in sun.. ( amps dependent upon panel output..)
its the dang FUBBAR wiring, that created this problem
i just might buy some diodes and stack them parallel for the amps to make a large blocking diode capable of handling the panels 8amps total ISC
and let it go at that
all i need is a float voltage with enough juice to supply the parasitic loads, 2~3amps will actually raise battery voltage Normal parasitic is less than that ( as long as there is NO night time back feed )
i might be able to measure true parasitic and then set constant current at (1)amp more than parasitic drain
i know this is a unique situation.. And i just don't feel like climbing crawling pushing and pulling more wire, through closets or under the RV
i'm looking at this Buck Boost constant current
or this
boost buck constant current
its a long run from the panels on 16~14ga wire , 15.5v panels measuring 13.8v at the hatch/fuse open circuit (good sun)..12.85 under charge with fuse in circuit no controller ( problem night drain )
under shade tree 9.55voc 0.560amps short circuit
i know can't boost shaded volts & amps .. nothing to work with
just want to stop back feed in shade/night and have usable voltage in the sun
boost to 14v 5amp max ? while in sun.. ( amps dependent upon panel output..)
its the dang FUBBAR wiring, that created this problem
i just might buy some diodes and stack them parallel for the amps to make a large blocking diode capable of handling the panels 8amps total ISC
and let it go at that
all i need is a float voltage with enough juice to supply the parasitic loads, 2~3amps will actually raise battery voltage Normal parasitic is less than that ( as long as there is NO night time back feed )
i might be able to measure true parasitic and then set constant current at (1)amp more than parasitic drain
i know this is a unique situation.. And i just don't feel like climbing crawling pushing and pulling more wire, through closets or under the RV
