Need Help! Coach wont restart!
All, Need some assistance. I have Good Sams roadside assistance but hope its an easy fix. We are on the road visiting realitives. Needed to get some more propane since we are up north and start...
Forum Discussion
It's pretty hard to look parts up for a Workhorse Chassis on the auto/truck parts sites. I looked at Rockauto.com because they have better lookups than many. I was thrilled when I scrolled down and found "Workhorse" and then the models like W22. But when I went to look for Starter, nothing. VERY few parts were listed, so I went to Kodiak to find a Starter for the 8.1.
Your starter is likely to be mounted in a different orientation than the photo above, but for now, let's do "Dr. Pepper 10, 2, and 4." The large coppery stud with no cable and just a nut is at clocked at 10:00. Then there's a smaller silvery stud with nut at 2:00. Finally, another large coppery stud with a short cable on it at 4:00. If everything's working... like Ignition Switch, Neutral Safety, anything that might have to do with Slides, any Fuses and Relays...
then when you turn the Key to Start, 12 volts goes to the 2:00 stud and causes the Solenoid to make a connection between 10:00 and 4:00. Since 10:00 has the positive battery cable on it, 12 volts is already there. So 2:00 has caused 12 volts to go from 10:00 to 4:00. This powers the starter motor via the short cable on 4:00.
So take a Meter or Test Light under there. There should be 12 volts between bare metal on the Starter Motor or Solenoid and 10:00. There should NOT be 12 volts on 2:00 or 4:00. Until you turn the Key to Start, that is. Right now you say it isn't cranking, so keep the Meter on 2:00 and have somebody turn the Key to Start. If there still is NOT, then my premise is: You can crank the starter, and will not hurt anything, if you power 2:00 from 10:00. You can do that with light wire or a small tool. Just don't touch bare metal at the same time. EDIT: SEE NEXT POST IN THIS TREAD: Take the nut off the 2:00 stud, lift the terminal off, and tape it so it can't make contact with bare metal or another terminal. Do that first then connect 10:00 to 2:00 and the starter should crank. Or, use a booster cable or a heavier tool and connect 10:00 with 4:00. Starter should crank.
MAKE SURE IT ISN'T IN GEAR...
IF You disconnect the wire from 2:00 stud then:
1. Battery and Connections (both the 12 volt cables AND the ground cable) are good,
2. Starter is tight to engine,
3. You connect 10:00 to 2:00 and
4. Starter DOES Crank, Solenoid and Starter are Good but the circuit from Key to 2:00 is bad.
5. You connect 10;00 to 2:00 and Starter does not crank but does crank when
6. You connect 10:00 to 4:00, then Solenoid is bad and Starter is good
7. You connect 10:00 to 4:00 and Starter does not crank, then Starter is bad.
You really need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) to test fuses and coils, and a Test Light to look for Voltage in places like the 10-2-4 studs.
Your starter is likely to be mounted in a different orientation than the photo above, but for now, let's do "Dr. Pepper 10, 2, and 4." The large coppery stud with no cable and just a nut is at clocked at 10:00. Then there's a smaller silvery stud with nut at 2:00. Finally, another large coppery stud with a short cable on it at 4:00. If everything's working... like Ignition Switch, Neutral Safety, anything that might have to do with Slides, any Fuses and Relays...
then when you turn the Key to Start, 12 volts goes to the 2:00 stud and causes the Solenoid to make a connection between 10:00 and 4:00. Since 10:00 has the positive battery cable on it, 12 volts is already there. So 2:00 has caused 12 volts to go from 10:00 to 4:00. This powers the starter motor via the short cable on 4:00.
So take a Meter or Test Light under there. There should be 12 volts between bare metal on the Starter Motor or Solenoid and 10:00. There should NOT be 12 volts on 2:00 or 4:00. Until you turn the Key to Start, that is. Right now you say it isn't cranking, so keep the Meter on 2:00 and have somebody turn the Key to Start. If there still is NOT, then my premise is: You can crank the starter, and will not hurt anything, if you power 2:00 from 10:00. You can do that with light wire or a small tool. Just don't touch bare metal at the same time. EDIT: SEE NEXT POST IN THIS TREAD: Take the nut off the 2:00 stud, lift the terminal off, and tape it so it can't make contact with bare metal or another terminal. Do that first then connect 10:00 to 2:00 and the starter should crank. Or, use a booster cable or a heavier tool and connect 10:00 with 4:00. Starter should crank.
MAKE SURE IT ISN'T IN GEAR...
IF You disconnect the wire from 2:00 stud then:
1. Battery and Connections (both the 12 volt cables AND the ground cable) are good,
2. Starter is tight to engine,
3. You connect 10:00 to 2:00 and
4. Starter DOES Crank, Solenoid and Starter are Good but the circuit from Key to 2:00 is bad.
5. You connect 10;00 to 2:00 and Starter does not crank but does crank when
6. You connect 10:00 to 4:00, then Solenoid is bad and Starter is good
7. You connect 10:00 to 4:00 and Starter does not crank, then Starter is bad.
You really need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM) to test fuses and coils, and a Test Light to look for Voltage in places like the 10-2-4 studs.
