Forum Discussion

rockwind1's avatar
rockwind1
Explorer II
Mar 16, 2017

new air conditioner or repair 10 year old unit

greetings. i have a 2007 attitude FSAKG 34' fifth wheel. man, i am always working on this thing but it has 2 ac's, one in the master which is a 12,500 i am pretty sure and the "main" one which is a 15,000 btu unit. the main one has taken a dump, i think it is toast, although i am not a air cond tech, have the guages though but the rv shops here in vegas are pretty cut throat. I would be better of having ISIS work on it. between driving the trailer down to ISIS headquarters, having them fix it for no doubt in the hundreds of $, i can get a new unit and put it on myself for 5, which seems really easy (except for getting it on the roof)

so my question is for those who have experienced a similiar problem

are the newer models a lot better and more efficient than the 10 year old models?
is it worth getting repairs (assume the worst like the pump is bad)?

is it as easy as it seems?

thanks in advance for any helpful responses. (fyi, i asked on another forum also)
  • I would replace it. I live just outside of Houston, and here we have one of the largest, and least expensive, RV parts houses in the country.
    PPL RV Parts.
    Bought a ducted 13,500 upper and lower unit from them last month for, after taxes, just under $600.
    I believe they ship anywhere in the country for a very reasonable rate.

    Installing a rooftop is remarkably easy, biggest job is getting old one to ground and new one to roof. I'm lucky there, we have a tractor with front-end loader that handles it quite easily. I have seen 2 men take a unit up ladders and didn't seem too bad. Hooking up is no challenge even for an amateur.

    I personally would not spend several hundred dollars with a A/C tech when I can get the whole package for around $600.
  • Rock,

    Work on Big Katuma's plan. Check out the capacitors and other easy stuff like oiling the fan motor. If the refrigeration side it dead, it is rarely effective to repair same and it takes a whole lot more the gauges that you can't hook on because there are no access fittings.

    Matt
  • Well if you say you are handy, take the cowl off, find where the wires from the motor go into the sheet metal and take off that cover as that is where the caps and the PCTR is.

    You often see dead electron guts if a cap blew up or the PTCR blew up.

    They are under $20. If you are not hearing any humming, the compressor isnt starting.
  • If it is 10+ old, it may be using Freon which is ever harder to get. RV units are sealed from the factory. At best, you can get someone to install a vampiric tap so more refrigerant can be added... but those will eventually leak anyway.

    Realistically, I'd replace the unit with a new one. Newer models are definitely more efficient, and you will have a warranty for a year or two as well.
  • 1. 13,500. They don't make a 12,500
    2. What good are the gauges??????? RV AC units have NO service ports. Since you are a novice, I would advise against trying to tap into and install clamp on ports. Clamp on ports are good for one thing---making money for qualified service people because they all leak eventually from the compression of the copper tubing. You always solder in fill ports after draining the system with clamp on taps.
    3. The ONLY way to test an RV AC is by temp corrected compressor amp draw. Which you can do by buying an inexpensive clamp on AC amp meter. Doug
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    I replaced two 13,500 BTU's with two 15K's. one of them (Advent air, which for maintenance reasons I do NOT recommend) takes the exact same current, running, as the OEM, bit more starting,, The other (Coleman) takes 0.4 amps more The originals were Carrier AirV's

    But at 10 years.. It depends on why it has failed, a New A/C, installed, is roughly 1,000 give or take a bit depending on where you do it.. Less if you DIY but I really don't recommend DIY as it's about 70-90 pounds you need to raise to the roof.. Within my capacity when I was 30, not so much today :).

    On mine I have spare blower motors, fans, blowers, and such (For Carrier if you need one) even cowling.. But the cooling system,, Compressor, evap, condenser, dryer and piping and valves.. if that's shot, or dry (lost coolant) replacement is indicated in most cases.
  • i'm pretty darn handy but i also don't want to waste my time polishing a turd to save 200$ for 10 hours worth of work. (although i love learning something new ) i guess the big mystery here is what exactly is wrong, i've messed around with house ac's, and these ac's on my rig and from the way it is acting, i think the pump/motor went. i will switch out capacitors cause i think i have a spare and see what happens
  • I think if mine failed at this point I would go new. To get them to repair it will likely cost 50~75% of new.
    The new ones dont seem to employ the modern technology that makes all residential AC's so efficient but at least it would be "new" and maybe give us a good chance to upgrade the BTU rating.
    Anyway, that's one opinion. YMMV!
  • The rules of thermo dynamics havent changed so the new ones arent really any more efficient.

    But labor rates have gone up. I replaced the motors on mine that failed about two weeks apart. A little over a hundred each but if it is the compressor I would replace the entire unit.

    It could also be something cheap like the starting capacitors or the startup device PTCR.

    Depends how handy you are. You might try to find a decent rv guy that says he can take a look.

About Technical Issues

Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,208 PostsLatest Activity: Feb 27, 2025