Forum Discussion
BFL13
Jun 28, 2019Explorer II
You can put in a 60 amper instead of the 45 if you want. It makes no difference how many amps DC the converter does for running the 120v appliances. They have 12v just for their controls like the fridge temperature, but that doesn't take many amps.
You should use shorter than 3 ft lengths of #6 wire from the converter terminals to the DC panel lugs instead of skinny wire in order to see those 60 amps, but then you have to get those amps to the battery, so the wiring from battery to fuse panel could be made fatter.
Yes you can cut off the plug and do it that way. Note that the 120v to converter is just the black and white wires, so your ground wire in the plug wiring will not be used there--but you can connect it to the ground buss. (The OEM lower portion is grounded by its metal chassis to the main power centre's metal chassis, which is grounded to the RV frame via the copper wire by where the 30a shore cord connects to the "Main" breaker) So a deck mount converter should be grounded on its own by some means.
You can ignore the deck mount converter's chassis ground in this case IMO. Or connect it to the RV frame if you like. I believe it is more for reducing RF noise to nearby televisions and radios.
You might like the adjustable voltage if you get "into" looking after your house batteries better, but most people don't bother and they get by.
You don't need a higher amps converter for on shore power, but it helps to get a faster recharge if on generator. On this topic, it gets into how much battery bank you have in amp hours and how fast you want to charge it and how much generator power you have to run how high an amps converter/charger.
Not mentioned for better charging is to put the deck mount out near the battery bank with short fat wires to the battery. Leave the existing battery to fuse panel wires in place (still need to jumper the panel) that would be instead of where the 6300 lower portion is now. Only worth doing if you do a lot of generator recharging and want shorter gen run times. Needs 120v where you place the converter so you can plug it in.
You should use shorter than 3 ft lengths of #6 wire from the converter terminals to the DC panel lugs instead of skinny wire in order to see those 60 amps, but then you have to get those amps to the battery, so the wiring from battery to fuse panel could be made fatter.
Yes you can cut off the plug and do it that way. Note that the 120v to converter is just the black and white wires, so your ground wire in the plug wiring will not be used there--but you can connect it to the ground buss. (The OEM lower portion is grounded by its metal chassis to the main power centre's metal chassis, which is grounded to the RV frame via the copper wire by where the 30a shore cord connects to the "Main" breaker) So a deck mount converter should be grounded on its own by some means.
You can ignore the deck mount converter's chassis ground in this case IMO. Or connect it to the RV frame if you like. I believe it is more for reducing RF noise to nearby televisions and radios.
You might like the adjustable voltage if you get "into" looking after your house batteries better, but most people don't bother and they get by.
You don't need a higher amps converter for on shore power, but it helps to get a faster recharge if on generator. On this topic, it gets into how much battery bank you have in amp hours and how fast you want to charge it and how much generator power you have to run how high an amps converter/charger.
Not mentioned for better charging is to put the deck mount out near the battery bank with short fat wires to the battery. Leave the existing battery to fuse panel wires in place (still need to jumper the panel) that would be instead of where the 6300 lower portion is now. Only worth doing if you do a lot of generator recharging and want shorter gen run times. Needs 120v where you place the converter so you can plug it in.
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