New Meter on order

How do you intend to mount it?

It looks like it is intended to be mounted over a hole the size of the meter and then just screwed down. Looks like it is thin enough to make a mounting box to contain it and just surface mount it.

the location i have chosen gives the option of doing either one
i have some plastic tubes (rollers from doggie bags) that i may use as stand-offs
for a temporary surface mount, in that location

Click For Full-Size Image.

Arrived today, this is it , in a temporary position on the shelf behind the sofa
it is being powered by USB power-pak, used for recharging cellphones etc.

it uses 5v power for the display, that is the reason for the USB connector
so i am going to install a 12v to 5v usb supply at the fuse panel over the fridge, where i intend to mount it
right now sitting on the shelf, i can watch it from laptop table behind the co-pilot set

wiring was straight forward, i'm not using the charge relay or discharge relay control connection options, or the under voltage / over voltage alert options ( i may implement the alert options at another time )

doing the setup, programing in the amphr capacity and zeroing the hall effect current sensor, was simple fast and esy

i'm happy to see the discharge/charge amps, voltage, and current capacity state, etc..

according to my 'old' Fluke 77 digital meter,
this display is 0.01 high, and reading should be 12.70v

i can live with that

Thanks for the information. From the first post I've wondered about the amps accuracy. Any chance you would be able to compare the amps reading with a known accurate reading? ie A shunt based system.

Regardless I would expect it to be accurate enough for most RV usage.

MrWizard wrote:
wireless power meter

Volts , Amps, KwHr, AmpHr, capacity, SOC, etc...



sender and hall effect coil go at battery

display goes where-ever (as long as in signal range)

No pulling wires between the (2) pieces

going to mount sender at the battery (of course)

going to put display over the fridge where the fuse box and breakers are

the furnace is under the fridge, and no easy way to pull wire inside from the battery in basement or the OEM house mount up front behind the grill

converter is in basement, with my add-on 4D agm

meter should arrive middle next week

$40 on ebay

I went looking after remembering somebody (Mexi?) had posted a link many months back

Wow ... you got off easy peasy!

I had to mount a shunt at the coach battery bank and then run the wires along the frame and up into the dash for only an ammeter. My dash voltmeter for the coach battery bank is a plain old 4-place digital voltmeter that plugs into a coach 12V outlet and then has a wire hanging along the cab ceiling down to the voltmeter velcro'd onto the dash.

You gotta love (some of) the new gadgets and gizmos. I sure hope scientists are correct regarding all of the RF flying around in the air as being harmless. ;)

i had the "poor mans trimetric" power amps watts volts meter with shunt in the safari

this bounder would be a real pain to wire, so i wanted the easy way

the amps compare very close with my clamp on DC amp meter

i don't have a shunt metered system on this one, and no plans to install one

I purchased one of these 6 months or so ago and seem to remember that the "wireless" function was Bluetooth and wouldnt work further then 10' or so.

I will have to dig it up and see if it's the same one you purchased. I had high hopes for it. Like most Chinese components they usually let you down.

Ron W.

This one uses 2.4Ghz WiFi
Using a 5v power bank. I took it all over the RV , worked perfect

i’m confused.

- how does the sending unit connect to or “read” the coach batteries?
- i have a bank of 4 AGM batteries. do i need 4 devices?
- do i need my own wifi for the transmitter to communicate with the wireless receiver or are they like my NEST smoke detectors and communicate using their own protocol?

put the hall effect sensor unit on the house battery bank power line
negative or positive,

attach the sending unit to the bank positive and negative for power and voltage sense

the display goes anywhere inside that you mount it with power to supply it
the display does need 5v only and uses a USB plug for that 5v

the display wifi connection is built in, NO other wifi is needed, its automatic

one system is all you need for your bank, you want to measure it , use, charge it as one bank, not as individual batteries

i'm going to mount it near the power panel/fuse box
i'm going to get 12v to 5v usb circuit board about $3, to use power it and connect that to Dc power

the voltage will 'sensed' at the battery NOT at the power panel