It looks like we might be in the market for a new converter and need suggestions. We have a travel trailer that stays hooked up to 110 year around. Back in the summer we started having issues with our refrigerator shutting down. Closed the camper down for the winter but this past week-end decided to spend a couple of nights in it and work on refrigerator. Because of the cold temps we ran the furnace, refrigerator,lights,etc. During the night we woke to a very cold unit. Everything was off. We could reset the breaker and things would work again. Next day we replaced the main breaker. Things worked great for awhile then everything shut down again. So we turned the refrigerator off thinking this was the problem. It wasn't. As soon as things shut down it would try to operate off the 12v system. The batteries(1 yr old) must not be charging because it wouldn't kick in. Everything's dead again until we turned breaker off, let it rest then turn it back on again. Works 4-5 hrs max. Since the refrigerator has to have 12v to run the controls & the furnace runs on 12v we figure it must be our power converter.What do you think?

Hi,Disconnect the battery and check to see if it is charged or not. While it is disconnected check the voltage coming to the battery from the converter. (rv speak for an inverter, that charges batteries)Post the make and model of the converter for detailed help.

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First of all, it is not an inverter that you are having trouble with, it is a converter. This detail is not nit-picking, the two devices are very different, do different things, and unless you name the right part when you go buy one, you are guaranteed to get something that will be of no help solving your problem. Just sayin' . . . .Secondly, unless you have a relatively new (meaning a couple years) 3 stage converter, leaving your rig plugged into shore power continuously is guaranteed to kill your battery in fairly short order. Given the symptoms you describe, it sounds like you need both a new CONVERTER and a new battery. Spring for the extra bucks and get one of the 3 stage units. It's worth it.Finally, to check and see if indeed the battery is dead, take it out and go to a place like Pep Boys, Advance Auto, Auto Zone, or one of the battery shops. They can charge it up and test it for you, and will do it for free. If they tell you the battery is dead, buy a new one from 'em, but don't install it until you get the CONVERTER replaced.(NOTE: be sure to mark the wires you take OFF the battery so you know which goes to positive and negative terminals. You don't want to get 'em on backwards lest your problems really take off.)

rvingnuts wrote:.. we figure it must be our power inverter.What do you think?I think it's your power convertor.

New power inverter? | Good Sam Community

15 Replies

BlindGuynAR
Explorer
Feb 25, 2014
This maybe an unpopular answer, but here goes.

If plugged in 24/7/365 (park model that never moves) and had my slides out permanently then why waste money on 3 stage converters and new batteries?

I say remove the batteries and tape the cable ends. The batt isn't doing much for you if always plugged in anyway.

Then get a 45-65 amp single stage converter and it will provide all the 12v you need and be cheaper as well.

Now if the unit ever moves you need a battery for slide movement in/out and the trailers emergency breakaway brakes.

A disavantage is if you leave refer on while away a power outage will spoil the contents where as having a batt installed will give some backup service to the refer. Also if the converter fails you'll have no backup source to run refer, lights, etc.

It's all just a function of the size of your wallet.
bigB42
Explorer
Feb 25, 2014
I just replaced my converter,after checking everything.hope I'm saying this right but if your plugged in you don't need batterys ken
AllegroD
Nomad
Feb 25, 2014
Call Randy @ Best Converter. He is great with helping find the right converter for you.
time2roll
Nomad
Feb 25, 2014
rvingnuts wrote:
Any brand recommendations? And is there any benefit to go up in amps,watts,etc.? I also saw a Smart charger but they are $$$$$!

http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-4-Stage-Main-Board-Replacement_p_521.html#.Uwv6IODTmUk

45a is plenty plugged in 24/7/365. Actually the 35a is probably enough.

If you find you need a battery... a small group 24 is plenty all by itself.
BFL13
Explorer II
Feb 25, 2014
rvingnuts wrote:
It looks like we might be in the market for a new converter and need suggestions. We have a travel trailer that stays hooked up to 110 year around. Back in the summer we started having issues with our refrigerator shutting down. Closed the camper down for the winter but this past week-end decided to spend a couple of nights in it and work on refrigerator. Because of the cold temps we ran the furnace, refrigerator,lights,etc. During the night we woke to a very cold unit. Everything was off. We could reset the breaker and things would work again. Next day we replaced the main breaker. Things worked great for awhile then everything shut down again. So we turned the refrigerator off thinking this was the problem. It wasn't. As soon as things shut down it would try to operate off the 12v system. The batteries(1 yr old) must not be charging because it wouldn't kick in. Everything's dead again until we turned breaker off, let it rest then turn it back on again. Works 4-5 hrs max. Since the refrigerator has to have 12v to run the controls & the furnace runs on 12v we figure it must be our power converter.What do you think?

No reason there to suspect the converter. When you camp with hook-ups you don't need the 'boost' stage anyway, just normal and float.

You do have issues. First, you have some sort of 120v problem and the converter does need 120v input. But with no converter, you should still have battery for 12v and that should run the fridge controls ok with the fridge on propane.

So for now don't worry about the converter, find out what the 120v problem is and why battery didn't come into play with no converter.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Feb 25, 2014
Brand recommendations: Progressive Industries 9200 line. This is a stand alone unit, 3 stages plus, in doing considerable research a few years ago I was unable to find a better converter for RV's with flooded wet cells.

What size: Figure out the 20 hour rating of your batteries, you may use the following list as a guide if you wish but be aware it's approximate. And multiply by 0.3 (30%)

Group 24 75 amp hours
Group 27 90-95
Group 29 100-105
Group 31 125-130
GC-2 pairs (These are six volt golf car batteries when you buy them, when paired in series they become one big 12 volt battery) 225-230

And the result is the size of the converter to buy

NOTE; a battery with a couple of shorted cells can look a lot like a bad converter depending on how the RV was wired.

My PDI 9180 With Wizard died on me today.. Usuall problem

It is a "Plug in" model (They make them in plug in and hard wired, the only difference is the plug in models come with a cord attached) and I'd accidentally pulled the plug.. Restored plug to outlet. .all good all of a sudden. Thankfully battery status monitor caught it.
rvingnuts
Explorer
Feb 24, 2014
Any brand recommendations? And is there any benefit to go up in amps,watts,etc.? I also saw a Smart charger but they are $$$$$!
mena661
Explorer
Feb 24, 2014
The WFCO converter is a 3 stage unit but notorious for not going into the boost stage (1st stage - high volts needed for fast charging).
rvingnuts
Explorer
Feb 24, 2014
We do know our converter,(a WFCO 55 amp) quits working. We will definitely check the battery. Please explain what a 3 stage converter is and the benefits. The reason we left the camper plugged in is because of food items left in the refrigerator. I don't believe the battery would stay charged up to run the fridge if we leave unplugged a couple of weeks. What are our options? Other info on our converter: input 105-130ac 60hz 950Watt output 13.6 volts dc 55amp
MrWizard
Moderator
Feb 24, 2014
It's your 12v converter/charger
Makes 13.xxx volts to charge your battery

An inverter takes battery power and makes 120vac

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