Next issue...leaf spring unseated during u-bolt removal...

Tin Pusher wrote:

cannesdo wrote:
"A neighbor suggested I put a bottle jack under the brake drum and lift up there in order to get the leaf spring back in position....?"

I'd be careful jacking on the brake drum. Wouldn't be my first choice.

Sent my response to the wrong person. Please delete this response.

Tin Pusher wrote:

cannesdo wrote:
"A neighbor suggested I put a bottle jack under the brake drum and lift up there in order to get the leaf spring back in position....?"

I'd be careful jacking on the brake drum. Wouldn't be my first choice.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. But a speed bump would do the same thing. It just lifts that whole drum up in the air. And the drum is strong. hmm...

cannesdo wrote:
"A neighbor suggested I put a bottle jack under the brake drum and lift up there in order to get the leaf spring back in position....?"

I'd be careful jacking on the brake drum. Wouldn't be my first choice.

cannesdo wrote:

Bird Freak wrote:
I think a few of us tried to tell you the same thing about center bolt. Im not trying to be mean here but if you don't know how much shocks will compress you do not need to mess with this type of thing. A lot of people have been hurt or worse trying to save a buck.

You did, and I appreciate it. When you get a lot of conflicting info and you don't yet have a grip on the whole situation you are in a state of confusion for a while. What the mechanic said about the amount of tension in the springs helped me to fully grasp it, sort of brought all the info together for me. So once I was able to integrate that fully I wanted to share that I too concluded that that isn't a good thing to do.

Understand. I have gotten to the point here that I look at folks profiles as to how much credit I give their post.
I was not trying to seem rude as I stated but just hate to see people hurt.

cannesdo wrote:
Question...Should the bushings on the shocks be pressed together so that they are bulging out a little or not? They are very secure and I pushed them a little past just solid. It didn't seem right to make them push out to far. I shook them very well and they are really secure. I will check the nuts often for the first few months.

Tighten the nuts until the rubber bushing is the diameter of the washers.

cannesdo wrote:

Bird Freak wrote:
I think a few of us tried to tell you the same thing about center bolt. Im not trying to be mean here but if you don't know how much shocks will compress you do not need to mess with this type of thing. A lot of people have been hurt or worse trying to save a buck.

You did, and I appreciate it. When you get a lot of conflicting info and you don't yet have a grip on the whole situation you are in a state of confusion for a while. What the mechanic said about the amount of tension in the springs helped me to fully grasp it, sort of brought all the info together for me. So once I was able to integrate that fully I wanted to share that I too concluded that that isn't a good thing to do.

The springs are only under tension when the weight of the actual trailer is on the suspension and once you support the trailer frame with the wheel(s) off the ground the spring tension on those U-bolts is basically gone.

Yep even mechanics can give bum/incorrect advice.

However, removing only one u-bolt at a time does eliminate the hassle of having to re-center the axle mount to the spring pin. Of course now we're into the recommendation that you should never reuse suspension u-bolts and nuts and always use new ones, sort of like the wheel bearing grease seal argument. Of course this aspect has been completely ignored in this thread even by that all knowledgeable mechanic.

Larry

Bird Freak wrote:
I think a few of us tried to tell you the same thing about center bolt. Im not trying to be mean here but if you don't know how much shocks will compress you do not need to mess with this type of thing. A lot of people have been hurt or worse trying to save a buck.

You did, and I appreciate it. When you get a lot of conflicting info and you don't yet have a grip on the whole situation you are in a state of confusion for a while. What the mechanic said about the amount of tension in the springs helped me to fully grasp it, sort of brought all the info together for me. So once I was able to integrate that fully I wanted to share that I too concluded that that isn't a good thing to do.

Question...Should the bushings on the shocks be pressed together so that they are bulging out a little or not? They are very secure and I pushed them a little past just solid. It didn't seem right to make them push out to far. I shook them very well and they are really secure. I will check the nuts often for the first few months.

I think a few of us tried to tell you the same thing about center bolt. Im not trying to be mean here but if you don't know how much shocks will compress you do not need to mess with this type of thing. A lot of people have been hurt or worse trying to save a buck.

Talked to a mechanic today. I would've really screwed things up if I took that plate totally off. ***U-bolts need to be replaced one at a time (!)*** He says that the spring pressure is enormous. He told me to just put it back together. "Do not under any circumstances remove the plate!" He said it's next to impossible to get it back together. I also learned there was never a nut under that leaf spring center pin. And he showed me that the shock will compress even more than it is in its compressed state. (I think gas shocks compress more than hydraulic shocks). So I didn't have to take anything else apart. I got the rig safely upon 4 jack stands (6 ton each...that was plenty...it was rock solid) and 1 bottle jack. Lowered it down onto the 2 wheels (same axle) and the jack stands. Had to get a wide plank cut to put under the jack stands as I'm on gravel. Raised up the front jacks as well. Got three shocks installed. The nub sticking out on the top of the leaf spring pin didn't move when lifted the rig up.

Now I just have to get that one corner of the suspension back together. And there is no nut on that center pin under the plate. Not supposed to be. Nothing fell off. A neighbor suggested I put a bottle jack under the brake drum and lift up there in order to get the leaf spring back in position....?

U-bolts....one at a time....one...at a time. That's the key. Leave the other one tight, do the other...tighten that, do the first one. Back off all of them just a *bit* then tighten in a cross pattern. To 100 (how do you say it) -- torque on the wrench.