1985 Holiday Rambler Imperial 33 ft.electrical issueplease helpon shore power - lights work - therefore converter must workon shore power, vehicle warming up - lights pulseno shore power, vehicle not running, no power to 12v systemcheckedbatteries - full 12.6v Trojan T2 x 2solar charging panel reading full charge on batteriescontinuity from battery to fuse to invertercontinuity through fuse to inverter, 12.6V reading from output of inverter on pin one and four no power to any sockets,no power to any plug ins.no power when drawing power from tool on plug indistribution panel from converterall fuses continuity through allI'm stumped, unless there is a fuse somewhere hidden I don't know about. any suggestions from all you knowledgeable people out there.thanks in advance

There should be a fuse or circuit breaker adjacent to the batteries or near the battery disconnect.Have you tried cycling the battery disconnect? Could be bad.

I recently had a similar problem... it took someone else to figure out that I had moved the battery cut-out switch loading plastic bins in the basement of our fiver. OK - I've confessed.

by battery cut off switch - if your referring to the switch that goes between shore and battery, that is below the remote starter for the inverter, its working and in battery mode. but don't think it would interfere with 12v system as it just toggles between battery and shore for the plug ins. There is a finned box in the battery compartment, cleaned the terminals and ends in baking soda to remove any hidden corrosion. no switch on it that I can see but it does have a positive and negative post. no idea what that is but think it is the battery isolator. there are no cut off switches for the house batteries.

Moved from Forum Technical Support

Your description of what's working is correct for a failed solenoid, or solid-state isolator. The batteries are not connected to the 12v circuit.When plugged into shore-power the converter/charger can power the 12v circuit with batteries out of the loop. The engine alternator can still charge the batteries.A MH of your circa can have some power fluctuations because it needs the batteries in the loop to smooth things out.I would cycle the battery-disconnect switch on and off a number of times (they sometimes stick). It can also help if you start the engine first and let idle while you try the "disconnect" switch. Increased voltage of 14.5 to 15.0 volts versus 12.7 volts or less can help free a stuck solenoid.

no 12 volt power from batteries. | Good Sam Community

daytrader
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2015
I have done that, that's why I'm stumped. have continuity through all wires and fuses. I'm missing something, but don't know what
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2015
Basically, you just need to start with a test light hooked to the battery ground, start at the battery and see where the power stops.
joebedford
Nomad II
Sep 29, 2015
"12.6V reading from output of inverter on pin one and four"

I'm confused. Why would you have 12.6V on the output of an inverter? An inverter outputs 120V AC power.
daytrader
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2015
thanks for that advice, its confirming what is not wrong. But, I do not have a battery disconnect switch connected to the house batteries. They run straight from the house batteries to the inverter. What runs the 12v system from the batteries, when not on shore power, that seems to be the issue. Am going to dealership today to talk to service department for ideas, but was hoping it was a quick fix, like a hidden fuse or a corroded connection I have not found yet.
MNtundraRet
Navigator
Sep 29, 2015
Your description of what's working is correct for a failed solenoid, or solid-state isolator. The batteries are not connected to the 12v circuit.

When plugged into shore-power the converter/charger can power the 12v circuit with batteries out of the loop. The engine alternator can still charge the batteries.

A MH of your circa can have some power fluctuations because it needs the batteries in the loop to smooth things out.

I would cycle the battery-disconnect switch on and off a number of times (they sometimes stick). It can also help if you start the engine first and let idle while you try the "disconnect" switch. Increased voltage of 14.5 to 15.0 volts versus 12.7 volts or less can help free a stuck solenoid.
1492
Moderator
Sep 29, 2015
Moved from Forum Technical Support
daytrader
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2015
by battery cut off switch - if your referring to the switch that goes between shore and battery, that is below the remote starter for the inverter, its working and in battery mode. but don't think it would interfere with 12v system as it just toggles between battery and shore for the plug ins. There is a finned box in the battery compartment, cleaned the terminals and ends in baking soda to remove any hidden corrosion. no switch on it that I can see but it does have a positive and negative post. no idea what that is but think it is the battery isolator. there are no cut off switches for the house batteries.
Second_Chance
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2015
I recently had a similar problem... it took someone else to figure out that I had moved the battery cut-out switch loading plastic bins in the basement of our fiver. OK - I've confessed.
enblethen
Nomad
Sep 29, 2015
There should be a fuse or circuit breaker adjacent to the batteries or near the battery disconnect.
Have you tried cycling the battery disconnect? Could be bad.

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no 12 volt power from batteries.

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