No DC Power with new converter

EMD360 wrote:
Yes below the fuse is a 50 amp breaker. I don’t think it’s resettable. Thanks for the tip. The red wires are on the battery disconnect switch. That turns off the DC power except for the propane sensor.

That is another possible "open" preventing battery power reaching the panel

Yes below the fuse is a 50 amp breaker. I don’t think it’s resettable. Thanks for the tip. The red wires are on the battery disconnect switch. That turns off the DC power except for the propane sensor.

No, the battery fuse or CB will be in the 40-60 amp range to match the ampacity of the wire and the charging amps of the OEM converter at 45-55a say.

It would be quite close to the battery, on the tongue of a TT just under the battery box, eg.

EDIT--the CB bottom right with the two black wires is a possible, but not sure what the bigger thing on the left is with the red wires. The isolator above appears to be for alternator charging of the house batts, controlled by the ignition being on or off. I am not familiar with that set-up, but a friend has one in a Sunseeker Class C. Our 1991 C does not have that set-up.

Somebody else who has one of these arrangements could help with this question better than I.

BFL13 “Usual "open" is the battery fuse (or DC CB) on the pos wire near the battery”
Are you referring to this 5 amp fuse?

Tomorrow I plan to run wires from the batteries to the old converter connections on the dc board.

You need to try getting 12v to the DC panel with no shore power or gen, just from the batteries. If that works, then with the chargers on the battery they should power the panel too, but at a higher voltage.

If there is an "open" in the wire from battery to panel, you can still charge the battery banks directly, but nothing will reach the panel, shore power or battery only.

Usual "open" is the battery fuse (or DC CB) on the pos wire near the battery