No hot water

DSI-FLT comes on under two.. Or 3 conditions.
1: No flame detected when in GAS mode.. See footnote
2: Over temp (ECO) thermostat open due to over temp or failure
3: Wire discconnected (Red wire to ECO to be disconnected when winterizing) Or bad connection.

Footnote
When mine was new It often took 3 or more times before gas would heat the beast. Electric worked 1st time every time but with Gas I kept getting the Fault (DSI-FLT) Light... Finally gas would not work at all. New control board fixed it.

Now that's mine. do not know how common this issue is.

Plus breakers normally don’t just trip for no reason.

120 volt circuit breakers can trip without the handle moving. That is why it is important to turn the breakers to the off position applying light pressure to off, then turn them back on.
You still have a problem as the propane portion does not require 120 volts AC to operate.

ricks99 wrote:
Now fixed.

So, one of the first things I had checked was to see if the beaker had tripped. I *thought* I new what a tripped one looked like....it would be "flipped." Right? Apparently not.

After hearing my DW ask repeatedly if I checked the breaker (and I kept saying "Yes, I'm not a complete fool, I know if a breaker has tripped,") I went ahead and manully flipped and reset the one for the water heater.

Bingo, 5 minutes later we have hot water.

Lesson learned.... Wife is always right.

Well you STILL have a problem. The Water Heater does NOT require 120 volts to operate.
1. NO 120 to the Water heater will NOT cause any fault. It just will not HEAT at all. That is your only indication it is not working on 120
2. The LP system does NOT require 120 also and you stated it did not work, It should have regardless of the 120 problem.
3. You have a 2017. There are a LARGE number of Atwood Water Heaters that have faulty intermittent water heater control modules. I would take it back to the dealer and have them replace the module.
4. The Humming/buzzing sound is NORMAL on Atwood Water Heater Modules. On 120 you can hear it. On LP gas, the roar of the flame hides the buzzing. It only makes the noise when the Heater is Heating. Doug

Just FYI. DSI FLT = Direct Spark Ignition Fault

Now fixed.

So, one of the first things I had checked was to see if the beaker had tripped. I *thought* I new what a tripped one looked like....it would be "flipped." Right? Apparently not.

After hearing my DW ask repeatedly if I checked the breaker (and I kept saying "Yes, I'm not a complete fool, I know if a breaker has tripped,") I went ahead and manully flipped and reset the one for the water heater.

Bingo, 5 minutes later we have hot water.

Lesson learned.... Wife is always right.

if your in a camp ground ?ask for some help. most rv,guys are willing to help others.

Do other gas appliances work? Did you just turn on the gas? Slowly? Do you have adequate battery power for the circuit board. Ours will not operate even if plugged in if the battery is not good. Does your water heater have an on/off switch on the heater itself that has to be turned on? Inside switches for gas and electric? Should be able to use one or the other, or both at the same time. Forgot to mention, I can also only get warm, not hot water if the showerhead is shut off with the showerhead switch and not the main faucets, same goes if an outdoor shower is shut off that way. Check those too.

"Circuit board failure" doesn't sound like something I can fix in the field with my hammer.

Yes, I'm plugged in to 30Amp shore power, if that makes a difference

Humming from relay.
Are you plugged into shore powwer?
I guess is circuit board failure!