Norcold issue - Freezer Good, Frig Bad

3 tons wrote:
Well, for reference only, I started the refer about 30 hrs ago in the RV garage (84deg F) and checked the temps while at temp setting 9 (6 cu/ft Norcold) :

Refer was at 27 deg F, freezer was at -05 deg F

For the refer this was about a 57deg drop from ambient!!.... Camper was stationary but I assume all is working ok.

So it kinda makes me wonder why I had such difficulties during our last outing when ambient was at around 105deg F....

Because the HOTTER the ambient air temp is the LESS heat it can absorb
The less heat absorbed the less cooling can occur.

Ammonia Vapor has to be 'condensed' back into cold liquid ...that is what the condenser (finned section at top of fridge) does.
Airflow across condenser absorbs the heat from the ammonia vapor--condensing it into cold liquid.

Hot ambient air doesn't remove as much heat...therefore less ammonia is condensed....less liquid ammonia then less cooling effect when the liquid ammonia 'FLASHES' back into a vapor when it mixes with the hydrogen gas

When ambient air temps rise....more airflow needed



Course that is 'assuming' RV MFG. properly installed the fridge as per Fridge MFGs. requirements.....clearances/baffles/fans etc.

Well, for reference only, I started the refer about 30 hrs ago in the RV garage (84deg F) and checked the temps while at temp setting 9 (6 cu/ft Norcold) :

Refer was at 27 deg F, freezer was at -05 deg F

For the refer this was about a 57deg drop from ambient!!.... Camper was stationary but I assume all is working ok.

So it kinda makes me wonder why I had such difficulties during our last outing when ambient was at around 105deg F....

3 tons wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

3 tons wrote:
jplante4 wrote:

Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.

' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??

1. IF stopped up NO air can go up and water cannot drain off
2. Norcolds have a CHECK valve on the end of the drain tube, so air cannot migrate back up. Also, Air migration will only happen in transit if the drain tube is open to the air. Doug

'Stopped up' ............ does this mean line is plugged and water cannot drain, or stopped up means this is normal so that warm ambient air should not be allowed to enter??

'Stopped up' means ambient air should not be allowed to travel upwards, OR ambient air should travel upwards??

Water should be allowed to drain, but ambient air not allowed to travel up line??

Though scoring 100% on the ASVAB mechanical, This is getting beyond my comprehension.....

Are we talking about one single solitary line that drains water, but allows ambient air to migrate towards refer, please clarify 'stopped up'..... now I'm exhausted - lol!!

Sorry, Double post .....

dougrainer wrote:

3 tons wrote:
jplante4 wrote:

Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.

' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??

1. IF stopped up NO air can go up and water cannot drain off
2. Norcolds have a CHECK valve on the end of the drain tube, so air cannot migrate back up. Also, Air migration will only happen in transit if the drain tube is open to the air. Doug

'Stopped up' ............ does this mean line is plugged and water cannot drain, or stopped up means this is normal so that warm ambient air should not be allowed to enter??

'Stopped up' means ambient air should not be allowed to travel upwards, OR ambient air should travel upwards??

Water should be allowed to drain, but ambient air not allowed to travel up line??

Though scoring 100% on the ASVAB mechsnical, This is getting beyond my comprehension.....

Are we talking about one single solitary line that drains water, but allows ambient air to migrate towards refer, please clarify 'stopped up'..... now I'm exhausted - lol!!

dougrainer wrote:
To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug

He has a camper model almost exactly like mine. It's an N621. There are no fans and it's not mounted in a slide.

"It's possible to dislodge a slug of solidified coolant by removing the fridge and inverting it. I've heard of also rapping the piping with a soft faced mallet but I've never tried that."

NO it is NOT possible. The blockage "slug" is welded to the inside tubing and Inverting or hitting with a hammer cannot dislodge it. Besides, IF you could dislodge it, it HAS to go somewhere and it will then get stuck somewhere else. Doug

3 tons wrote:
jplante4 wrote:

Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.

' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??

1. IF stopped up NO air can go up and water cannot drain off
2. Norcolds have a CHECK valve on the end of the drain tube, so air cannot migrate back up. Also, Air migration will only happen in transit if the drain tube is open to the air. Doug

jplante4 wrote:

Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.

' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??

In actuality, there are only a few things that can go wrong with an ammonia fridge that will cause it not to cool properly

The control board may be corrupt
The airflow across the backside is inadequate for proper heat transfer
The cooling unit has sprung a leak (very noticeable you can smell it and see the yellow tracks on the piping).
The cooling unit has a slug of solidified coolant in the piping (we don't know if the OP ran the fridge out of level for an extended time or any of the history of it, only that it's not operating properly....
The burner may need cleaning or the heating elements may be roasted.

All stuff that is easy to diagnose and correct except a compromised cooling unit, that requires a new one.

It's possible to dislodge a slug of solidified coolant by removing the fridge and inverting it. I've heard of also rapping the piping with a soft faced mallet but I've never tried that.

3 tons wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
The OP needs help. Not a bunch of Yahoos arguing over which type refer is best in their opinion and the needs for their type refer. It gets annoying when someone posts help and we have to wade thru a bunch of BS. You don't like Norcold? Fine, just SHUT UP. You have made your point on EVERY Norcold thread for the past dozen years.
To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug

How about 5 PAGES on "How many amps does a Fantastic Fan draw" !!

It's all good reading....lol