Not a TriMetric, but for $20 might be worth trying out...

Mine won't be difficult
I already have a run of com cable from batteries to the inside for a for a meter that died
Mount the new shunt and connect the com cable on each end

I really like the terminal board system with the ribbon connector
Much nicer than splicing into a flat pigtail cable

MrWizard wrote:
My meters have arrived
I did the buy two get one free
Three meters with two shunts

Two complete setups, and one spare meter

So now I can start planning the install

Surprised how tiny the meters are.

Mr Wizard,

I recently purchased that meter as well and have been staring at it for a week now scratching my head about how to connect it.

My biggest problem is the shunt, I dont have a single negative ground cable. My two sets of golf cart batteries need multiple cables.

I'm guessing all I need is one twisters pair from the shunt to the display located 15' away?

Thanks...if you can detail your install that would be appreciated.

Ron W.

My meters have arrived
I did the buy two get one free
Three meters with two shunts

Two complete setups, and one spare meter

So now I can start planning the install

MrWizard wrote:
i have something similar {to Power Analyzer} (same thing different mfg) in my solar charge circuit
i record daily readings for Amphrs, Watt Hrs, peak watts, peak amps
reset everynight

example.. todays readings
28.95 peak amps
404.18 peak watts

1766.8 watt hrs
126.56 ampHrs

thats why i bought the new meter
i wanted power readings for the whole system useage
and total system input, this way i know how much deficit i start the day with, how much i use at night, how much recharge i get from the converter etc..

Any decent solar controller will have this feature. But it only measures input side, not output, so AH meter is needed (sometimes) for battery output side. My situation was simpler, there is no converter usually (no grid), and night draw is minimal and predictable - few AH for propane fridge and very little - milli-AH? - of LP sensor. CO and smoke detectors are on their own AA. The "deficit" is under 20% on most mornings and is filled up before noon. I only look at it next day after a very rainy day, because this is when deficit might grow a little.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
And forfeit any data...

Pretty much. Accurate V/A meters start from $60, and since the OP gizmo doesn't measure AH, comparing it to AH meter like Trimetric is apples to oranges.

Measuring charging amps... and doing what with this data? :)
Doesn't matter that your battery "likes" drawing 55A, what matters is that recommended current for 225 bank is 45A. Limiting charging current is the charger's job, not the charger owner's. If you are trying to guesstimate SOC from how much current it's drawing - the accuracy of this method will likely be the same or lower than that of LED Christmat lights on OEM panel that reads "full-50%-empty".

i have something similar (same thing different mfg) in my solar charge circuit
i record daily readings for Amphrs, Watt Hrs, peak watts, peak amps
reset everynight

example.. todays readings
28.95 peak amps
404.18 peak watts

1766.8 watt hrs
126.56 ampHrs

thats why i bought the new meter
i wanted power readings for the whole system useage
and total system input, this way i know how much deficit i start the day with, how much i use at night, how much recharge i get from the converter etc..
detuct solar power input from total input to get aux/converter input

The inexpensive 100 amp Drok voltmeter/ammeter I employed on a project had no choice but to be wired on the (-). It was not very accurate either outside a 2 to 35 amp range.

It would read 0.0 amps when 0.72 amps were still flowing. Could not calibrate it any closer.

for sub 40 amp loads I use this on some devices:

http://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-AccuMax-Ammeter-Power-Analyzer/dp/B014KAT6ZA/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1459137780&sr=8-49&keywords=Power+Analyzer

Mine are actually different versions of that the above link, that came with aluminum 12awg leads, but I removed them and soldered 8awg leads to circuit board and use 45 amp Anderson powerpoles to splice it inline on most any of my loads, or charging sources.

With a load and source side, it only measures current flowing in one direction, but the AH and WH readings are very useful

RoyB wrote:
I'm not real keen with the DC SHUNT idea especially if used in the POSITIVE SIDE of the batteries. To prone with HOT wires routed everwhere...

Roy Ken

I was thinking of putting my shunt in a plastic box next to the converter and connecting into the positive line. Any major reason not to do this? It would be a lot easier than connecting into the negative line at or near the battery and running small wires back to where the display would be.

DrewE wrote:
The main problem I see with this unit (and many but not all of the digital DC ammeters available on Amazon etc.) is that it can only measure current in one direction. You can monitor battery charge current or battery discharge current, but not both with the same device, at least without an external switch to reverse the shunt sense lines.

I just bought this Drok ammeter here on Amazon - reads DC current in both directions. Only reads amps and not volts or power tho. Needs a 5 VDC voltage converter and shunt. Bought a separate Drok voltmeter to use along with this. Total cost under $40. I initially bought a Drok combo amp/volts display which only reads current in one direction and then decided I wanted to read both directions. I have no need to monitor other than DC volts & amps.