One 50Mv 500A shunt, two ammeters?
I've already got a Deltec 500a 50Mv shunt wired into my system for my battery monitor. The issue is I have a desire to see alternator charging amps when driving and my battery monitor is not safely...
Forum Discussion
Thanks for the workaround ideas.
My desire to see alternator current into the battery(s) from the driver's seat is not so high that I would really expend that much effort.
Running a new set of twisted pair to the display from my existing shunt would be as far as I would go and 25$ maximum.
My last alternator recently failed, and I maxed it out often and regularly for nearly 7 years before it failed. While it was failing it was the voltage it was able to hold, along with the noise it was making, that led me to want to see the amperage from drivers seat, as its output became more and more stunted, and was not able even bring the fully charged battery above 13.2v at higher rpms at the end, and at idle I could watch voltage drop to 12.6v.
An analog meter, that would display both (-) and (+) amperage flow would be OK, but my dashboard would not accommodate it nicely, and 70$ is more than I am willing to pay for the privilege of the convenience of not looking over my shoulder and seeing what my battery monitor reads.
My Alternator was also a lifetime warranty unit, and Oreilly's honored Kragen's warranty and just gave me another reman at no cost, and it took less than 15 minutes to swap out. This latest reman was a Wilson, reman'd in Mexico, and I did not see the traditional 'charge battery first before starting engine' that previous reman'd units came with which were 'Autolite' labelled.
I did one time have a previous Reman quit working when it only had 200 miles on it and was asked to charge 3 group 27 batteries depleted to inverter alarm level. After fully charging the batteries via the grid and another 20 miles of driving, the alternator magically kicked back in.
I was south of the border and was going to attempt to make it north on battery power alone, when it started functioning again. Not sure why it kicked back in, or what caused it to give out in the first place, other than the load of 3 super depleted batteries.
I would like an alternator more capable at my 525 rpm hot idle speed. I did employ a slightly smaller pulley on my last unit but it could not be employed safely on the latest reman.
My desire to see alternator current into the battery(s) from the driver's seat is not so high that I would really expend that much effort.
Running a new set of twisted pair to the display from my existing shunt would be as far as I would go and 25$ maximum.
My last alternator recently failed, and I maxed it out often and regularly for nearly 7 years before it failed. While it was failing it was the voltage it was able to hold, along with the noise it was making, that led me to want to see the amperage from drivers seat, as its output became more and more stunted, and was not able even bring the fully charged battery above 13.2v at higher rpms at the end, and at idle I could watch voltage drop to 12.6v.
An analog meter, that would display both (-) and (+) amperage flow would be OK, but my dashboard would not accommodate it nicely, and 70$ is more than I am willing to pay for the privilege of the convenience of not looking over my shoulder and seeing what my battery monitor reads.
My Alternator was also a lifetime warranty unit, and Oreilly's honored Kragen's warranty and just gave me another reman at no cost, and it took less than 15 minutes to swap out. This latest reman was a Wilson, reman'd in Mexico, and I did not see the traditional 'charge battery first before starting engine' that previous reman'd units came with which were 'Autolite' labelled.
I did one time have a previous Reman quit working when it only had 200 miles on it and was asked to charge 3 group 27 batteries depleted to inverter alarm level. After fully charging the batteries via the grid and another 20 miles of driving, the alternator magically kicked back in.
I was south of the border and was going to attempt to make it north on battery power alone, when it started functioning again. Not sure why it kicked back in, or what caused it to give out in the first place, other than the load of 3 super depleted batteries.
I would like an alternator more capable at my 525 rpm hot idle speed. I did employ a slightly smaller pulley on my last unit but it could not be employed safely on the latest reman.
