One large inverter or 2-3 small ones?
So as I get closer to adding solar (or at least a larger battery bank) to my RV, I have more questions than I started with! Big thanks to the folks who have helped me along so far. I found a great...
Forum Discussion
Hi Jeff,
Some inverters have a way to be "hard wired" to romex cable. Mind did not so I used a heavy duty 120 volt plug, then ran #10 wire to the 30 amp "aux" female outlet installed in the shore power cord box.
I would not put the inverter in the shore power cord box--it needs to be near the batteries. It also needs ventilation, when running flat out.
You will quickly find that you never look at the watts or volts monitor on the inverter. They are often just five or six leds. A way to turn the inverter on and off remotely is well worth while. On and off is not quite the correct word--as at least some inverters are still small dc parasites (similar to the propane detector) even when they are supposedly turned off.
Since the plan includes adding solar at some future time and since quality solar controllers often have fairly sophisticated monitoring--I'd just use a cheap plug in dc voltage meter from Walmart. Look for one that does xx.xx (i.e. 12.38) volts. Mine was $14.95.
Increasing the size of the alternator charging wire allows it to exhibit less voltage drop while letting it carry more amps back to the battery bank. The "limiting factor" is the starter battery--as the alternator may taper off when the starting battery is full. That is why I suggested an add on device for a totally independent charging path. I have not done so myself--but it is "on the list".
Since I have two banks I did add a 2nd charging path to the new bank. I monitor both paths with a Hall Effect ammeter. With both charging paths active I do see up to 70 amps--especially when running things such as the water heater on 120 volts. I chose to make those charging paths switched using twin solenoids that are manually controlled.
When the house battery banks are full, it is cool to see the solar system sending energy to the engine! I see as much as 5 amps from time to time--with 3 being quite common.
The OEM battery disconnect should not be used to pass DC power to the inverter. The wire may only be #12 (#10 if you are lucky or if you are totally blessed #8). This is not nearly thick enough to send adequate DC power to a thousand watt inverter.
Remember, if a thousand watt inverter is running "flat out" the dc wires may be carrying about 100 AMPS (1000/10). #10 wire is good for 30 amps and #8 for 40 amps.
Because I am a weekend warrior *and* a rolling stone, I tend to run my RV 100% electrically. That includes heating, cooking, lighting, running the fridge and water heater. I've not purchased propane Since Feb of 2012 and have 1/2 tank left.
I no longer own a generator. I wish to keep it that way. There is enough battery capacity to keep me warm for one night at -6 C (20 F).
I hope you will put in the greatest number of amp-hours of battery bank that will fit. L16 size would be good. Remember AGM can be installed on their sides.
Some inverters have a way to be "hard wired" to romex cable. Mind did not so I used a heavy duty 120 volt plug, then ran #10 wire to the 30 amp "aux" female outlet installed in the shore power cord box.
I would not put the inverter in the shore power cord box--it needs to be near the batteries. It also needs ventilation, when running flat out.
You will quickly find that you never look at the watts or volts monitor on the inverter. They are often just five or six leds. A way to turn the inverter on and off remotely is well worth while. On and off is not quite the correct word--as at least some inverters are still small dc parasites (similar to the propane detector) even when they are supposedly turned off.
Since the plan includes adding solar at some future time and since quality solar controllers often have fairly sophisticated monitoring--I'd just use a cheap plug in dc voltage meter from Walmart. Look for one that does xx.xx (i.e. 12.38) volts. Mine was $14.95.
Increasing the size of the alternator charging wire allows it to exhibit less voltage drop while letting it carry more amps back to the battery bank. The "limiting factor" is the starter battery--as the alternator may taper off when the starting battery is full. That is why I suggested an add on device for a totally independent charging path. I have not done so myself--but it is "on the list".
Since I have two banks I did add a 2nd charging path to the new bank. I monitor both paths with a Hall Effect ammeter. With both charging paths active I do see up to 70 amps--especially when running things such as the water heater on 120 volts. I chose to make those charging paths switched using twin solenoids that are manually controlled.
When the house battery banks are full, it is cool to see the solar system sending energy to the engine! I see as much as 5 amps from time to time--with 3 being quite common.
The OEM battery disconnect should not be used to pass DC power to the inverter. The wire may only be #12 (#10 if you are lucky or if you are totally blessed #8). This is not nearly thick enough to send adequate DC power to a thousand watt inverter.
Remember, if a thousand watt inverter is running "flat out" the dc wires may be carrying about 100 AMPS (1000/10). #10 wire is good for 30 amps and #8 for 40 amps.
Because I am a weekend warrior *and* a rolling stone, I tend to run my RV 100% electrically. That includes heating, cooking, lighting, running the fridge and water heater. I've not purchased propane Since Feb of 2012 and have 1/2 tank left.
I no longer own a generator. I wish to keep it that way. There is enough battery capacity to keep me warm for one night at -6 C (20 F).
I hope you will put in the greatest number of amp-hours of battery bank that will fit. L16 size would be good. Remember AGM can be installed on their sides.
