Open Neutral and failed transfer switch
we purchased a 201203 cyclone 3110 last Fall.This summer while at the beach, we came back to find our electric off and bedroom tv, central vac, and microwave fried. Before telling the campground what ...
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Plug the heater into a receptacle. Plug the meter into the second set of sockets. Fire up the heater. Watch for voltage decline. This has to be done on EVERY receptacle on that coach. That's why I use a pair of heaters. To save time.
Look, a 50-amp coach uses a SINGLE neutral feeder. A pair of heaters, one on branch one the other on branch two is going to load that neutral to 30 amps. If you lost neutral once I guarantee 30 amps "will find the problem". The problem may or may not appear immediately. Leave those heaters ON while checking voltages.
THEN, reconnect the heaters to TWO receptacles that are powered with independent 15-amp breakers but sucking off ONLY branch 1, OR branch 2. Another 20 minute test using a voltmeter. Branch 2 has to be tested after branch 1 is cleared or condemned.
This guy pulls into my facility and says "We haven't been able to use the rear air for six months. We went from Dealer to mechanic to everyone including a factory rep. We both smelled smoke one night and everyone says "There's No Problem!"
Step into my office...
Jesús and I wheeled out a six burner Kenmore 240 volt stove. Ran six gauge tap lines to the ahem ENERGY MANAGEMENT BOX. Flipped on a couple of burners. First low, then medium then...oh my gosh...there's the smoke that doesn't exist."
Dug up a couple of DPDT 50-amp relays.
New RV manufacturers try to achieve Space Shuttle grade sophistication on a Burger King budget. Knowing 99% of RV dealerships are owned and run by salesmen, I wonder how much they pay their mechanics? Oops I mean "Technicians". I know when I toughed it out forty years ago and went to work for a car dealer to tide me over for a summer, the Service Manager was dumber than a quarter-mile of mud fence.
Look, a 50-amp coach uses a SINGLE neutral feeder. A pair of heaters, one on branch one the other on branch two is going to load that neutral to 30 amps. If you lost neutral once I guarantee 30 amps "will find the problem". The problem may or may not appear immediately. Leave those heaters ON while checking voltages.
THEN, reconnect the heaters to TWO receptacles that are powered with independent 15-amp breakers but sucking off ONLY branch 1, OR branch 2. Another 20 minute test using a voltmeter. Branch 2 has to be tested after branch 1 is cleared or condemned.
This guy pulls into my facility and says "We haven't been able to use the rear air for six months. We went from Dealer to mechanic to everyone including a factory rep. We both smelled smoke one night and everyone says "There's No Problem!"
Step into my office...
Jesús and I wheeled out a six burner Kenmore 240 volt stove. Ran six gauge tap lines to the ahem ENERGY MANAGEMENT BOX. Flipped on a couple of burners. First low, then medium then...oh my gosh...there's the smoke that doesn't exist."
Dug up a couple of DPDT 50-amp relays.
New RV manufacturers try to achieve Space Shuttle grade sophistication on a Burger King budget. Knowing 99% of RV dealerships are owned and run by salesmen, I wonder how much they pay their mechanics? Oops I mean "Technicians". I know when I toughed it out forty years ago and went to work for a car dealer to tide me over for a summer, the Service Manager was dumber than a quarter-mile of mud fence.
