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maillemaker's avatar
maillemaker
Explorer
Jun 03, 2018

Overheating and questions thermal sensors

So my 1990 Winnebago Warrior started overheating on a 1300 mile trip a couple of weeks ago.

Thought it might have been the thermostat, since at one point the temp spiked and then dropped within seconds, but when I started draining the coolant and looked down in the fill neck I could see all kinds of mineral deposits around and in the radiator cores.

So I drained the system and put in 2 bottles of Prestone Flush and used the RV as my daily driver, letting the solution work for a week.

Today I drained the system again. The fluid that came out was pretty clean. I looked down the filler neck and the deposits are still there:



I took the RV for a test drive down the interstate and sure enough when running for 30 minutes between 65 and 70 it was running hot.

Before doing this I put in 2 bottles of Blue Devil radiator flush and filled the system up with distilled water. I'm going to drive it for another week but I suspect I'm going to have to replace the radiator.

I want to put in a dual temperature gauge to monitor both coolant temperature and transmission fluid temperature.

This is the kind of gauge I want - wish I could find one that was cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z25HM68/?coliid=I3MLPVUV4CCRPX

The question is, where to put the sensors?

My rig is a 1990 Winnebago Warrior, built on a Ford E350 chassis with a 460 engine. I don't know what kind of transmission it has, though it does have automatic overdrive.

I have heard of a test port on the side of the transmission that can be used as a plumbing port for a temperature sensor. Is this it?




One thing I noticed is the bottom radiator hose, rather than going straight to the water pump, first passes through this aluminum block thing. I think this might be an oil cooler?




So if I understand the flow right, the water comes out of the radiator and goes back to the inlet on the outside of the water pump, and then enters the engine through an opening in the block behind the pump. Then it comes out through the thermostat opening and goes back into the radiator. is that right?

I see there are also some bypass hoses going from the water pump up to the thermostat area, and then out and up to the heater core (and also tees off to go back into the house to heat up the motor aid water heater and the internal cabin heater). There is also a bypass return line going back to the pump. Is that right?

I'm thinking of using this fitting in-line with the top radiator hose to insert a thermal sensor for the coolant:

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Temp-Joint-Pipe-Temperature/dp/B01FTLUQ4O

Though I'm not sure which size to get for my radiator hose. I think this is my hose:

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/hose-upper/dayco-hose-upper-/66528_0

This hose varies in ID form 1.5" [38mm] to 1.81" [46mm]

So I guess a 40mm fitting should do.

Of course being in the middle of a rubber hose run I will have to run a ground wire to the fitting (no doubt what the screw is for).

What do you think about my choices for hooking up thermal sensors? Any suggestions?

Steve
  • Remove the radiator and have it professionaly cleaned. They will remove the tanks, soak the core, rod all the tubes and re-assemble. When done, it will be like a new radiator.
  • Since that oil cooler looks like it is aluminum, I'm thinking any kind of lye-based cleaner is a no-go as it will attack the aluminum. Likewise I have motor-aid and a heat exchanger in the house for house heat from the engine - I don't know if any of those components are aluminum or not.

    I'm going to let this Red Devil flush do its thing for a week but I'm betting it's not going to work.

    Steve
  • You are correct as to coolant flow direction. I think you will find that replacing the radiator will make the problem go away for another 25 years and with a good radiator, the factory gauge is all you need. The inside of the radiator tubes just get corroded over the decades and no chemical will really do a very good job (well, maybe Red Devil lye but that might just eat clear through a spot that's already been corroded thin). In the 'good old days', radiator shops would unsolder the top and bottom tank and use pieces of brazing rod to 'rod out' each tube. The price of radiators has not gone up as fast as the cost of labor to fix old ones so a swap is the best choice. I'm sure that aluminum thing is an oil cooler as you suspect. A new radiator is what you need.

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