Pairing up the Eco-worthy 20a MPPT controller
Thanks to BFL confirming that the Eco-Worthy controller plays well when run with another controller, I felt pretty good about combining my two matched controllers. Each had one of the Bosch 245w mono ...
Forum Discussion
BFL
I've been thinking about the PWM amps in float and the demo mode.
The Eco-w uses a buck converter to take the excess voltage down to a usable level, creating extra amps as it does. I don't think it needs the MPPT function to do this outside of bulk mode where you need as much power as possible. Those extra amps may always be there, it's just the controller rarely calls for that level of power in float. So we may be seeing 13a in float but add in the MPPT function and you get another 3 amps from the maximization of the power point. (whatever that means)
I played with the demo mode in the beginning and thought it was a gimmick because it was saying the panel was above it's rated output. Since then I have seen the Isc well above the rating so I'm not sure how it's done. I thought it was a calculation and looking at the guts of the controller I shorted, I wouldn't know what to look for honestly. There is a wire about a inch or so that is covered with a loose clear sleeve. Could that be a shunt of some sort?
I've been thinking about the PWM amps in float and the demo mode.
The Eco-w uses a buck converter to take the excess voltage down to a usable level, creating extra amps as it does. I don't think it needs the MPPT function to do this outside of bulk mode where you need as much power as possible. Those extra amps may always be there, it's just the controller rarely calls for that level of power in float. So we may be seeing 13a in float but add in the MPPT function and you get another 3 amps from the maximization of the power point. (whatever that means)
I played with the demo mode in the beginning and thought it was a gimmick because it was saying the panel was above it's rated output. Since then I have seen the Isc well above the rating so I'm not sure how it's done. I thought it was a calculation and looking at the guts of the controller I shorted, I wouldn't know what to look for honestly. There is a wire about a inch or so that is covered with a loose clear sleeve. Could that be a shunt of some sort?
