Parallax 555 for charging batteries?
I just picked up 2006 Dutchman 5th wheel. I have always had "Smart" chargers on my other travel trailers and would just leave them plugged in at home all the time. My batteries were always in good sh...
Forum Discussion
AAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OR IS IT MILLIONS...
Of big rigs have operated BILLIONS of MILES, many of them are never shut off except to change oil and they ALL (this means every one) have an alternator voltage regular set point of near 14.0 volts. This I considered to be too high so I set them back two tenths of a volt to 13.8.
With OLD tar-top 5% antimony batteries.
Yes, IF THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY IS MAINTAINED to original equipment specification, 13.4 to 13.5 volts may be enough for optimum float.
But 13.8 volts WILL NOT BOIL A BATTERY DRY unless ambient temperatures soar above 90 degrees AND STAY THERE for six months or a year. Yeah. Day and night.
The specific gravity is GOD. It and no place and no one else determines whether a battery is charged or not.
It sure is NICE here, checking batteries on FLOAT for six months and finding ALL OF THE CELLS low on specific gravity. "But but but but, I was TOLD to NEVER set the float voltage up" I've heard this so many times I want to explode.
There is an EXACT POINT which believe me is DIFFERENT for each BRAND of battery, TYPE of battery and AGE of battery that maintains specific gravity at maximum while transacting a bare MINIMUM of kWh charging current.
If you desire to be knowledgeable about YOUR battery bank (never mind someone else) find out the EXACT point in which your batteries are maintained at that magic point. This setting is for YOU and not your neighbor's son-in-law's RV).
It would be nice to see a bunch of posts from folks willing to do this SIMPLE adjustment and see the results of the amount of CURRENT needed to maintain the batteries at full specific gravity and not 10 milliamps more or 10 milliamps less.
To declare anything different would be as frustrating as dealing with the statement,,,
ONE POLITICIAN FITS ALL
HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OR IS IT MILLIONS...
Of big rigs have operated BILLIONS of MILES, many of them are never shut off except to change oil and they ALL (this means every one) have an alternator voltage regular set point of near 14.0 volts. This I considered to be too high so I set them back two tenths of a volt to 13.8.
With OLD tar-top 5% antimony batteries.
Yes, IF THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY IS MAINTAINED to original equipment specification, 13.4 to 13.5 volts may be enough for optimum float.
But 13.8 volts WILL NOT BOIL A BATTERY DRY unless ambient temperatures soar above 90 degrees AND STAY THERE for six months or a year. Yeah. Day and night.
The specific gravity is GOD. It and no place and no one else determines whether a battery is charged or not.
It sure is NICE here, checking batteries on FLOAT for six months and finding ALL OF THE CELLS low on specific gravity. "But but but but, I was TOLD to NEVER set the float voltage up" I've heard this so many times I want to explode.
There is an EXACT POINT which believe me is DIFFERENT for each BRAND of battery, TYPE of battery and AGE of battery that maintains specific gravity at maximum while transacting a bare MINIMUM of kWh charging current.
If you desire to be knowledgeable about YOUR battery bank (never mind someone else) find out the EXACT point in which your batteries are maintained at that magic point. This setting is for YOU and not your neighbor's son-in-law's RV).
It would be nice to see a bunch of posts from folks willing to do this SIMPLE adjustment and see the results of the amount of CURRENT needed to maintain the batteries at full specific gravity and not 10 milliamps more or 10 milliamps less.
To declare anything different would be as frustrating as dealing with the statement,,,
ONE POLITICIAN FITS ALL
